Nearly impossible to "avoid" ethanol. The gov up'd the allowable ethanol content to 15%, and the list of pure, ethanol free gas retailers is all but empty at this time, ethanol is here to stay as retarded as that is. Worse fuel economy and destructive to the vehicles....that's green for ya! I suppose I can send the obamanation and our other fearless 'leaders' my future repair bills for all 3 of my Suzukis since the owner's manuals state 10% max and it's their great idea to put more ethanol in the fuel supply.
There are some snake oil fuel additives on the market now that claim to counter the negative effects of ethanol. Anyone know of any good scientifically backed testing results for any of these additives?
Avoid ethanol belnd fuel
I guess what I'm really looking for is opinion/facts about treatments dealing specifically w/ counteracting the destructive corrosive effects of fuels containing ethanol. Don't know if seafoam has any claim to that or not. I am in the process of evaluating a bottle of a particular additive in the Kizashi that claims to counter ethanol effects.
Nothing scientific mind you, just want to see if I notice any positive or negative effects on running smoothness and fuel economy. As for countering the corrosive effects of the ethanol, that's where a 'scientific' approach is needed and I obviously can not perform. Once I run through the entire bottle (many tanks of gas) and then I'm off it for a while I'll report the brand and what my experience was. I will say that after two tanks and nearly a third, my fuel mileage is consistently higher.
Nothing scientific mind you, just want to see if I notice any positive or negative effects on running smoothness and fuel economy. As for countering the corrosive effects of the ethanol, that's where a 'scientific' approach is needed and I obviously can not perform. Once I run through the entire bottle (many tanks of gas) and then I'm off it for a while I'll report the brand and what my experience was. I will say that after two tanks and nearly a third, my fuel mileage is consistently higher.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
) 1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
Who's there?
Friggin' 10% ethanol is at all pumps up here.
I have noticed when running premium (93 octane) I hear way less knock.
I think-but-cannot-prove I get about a 1--2MPG improvement with (Mobil) premium.
I also-think-but-cannot-prove that premium keeps the O2 sensors and the cat alive longer.
Friggin' 10% ethanol is at all pumps up here.
I have noticed when running premium (93 octane) I hear way less knock.
I think-but-cannot-prove I get about a 1--2MPG improvement with (Mobil) premium.
I also-think-but-cannot-prove that premium keeps the O2 sensors and the cat alive longer.
I've tried both the regular (87) and premium (93) fuels here in the DC area and on longer trips to NC and back.
What I have found is that here in DC it doesn't matter what the hell you use for fuel... you burn it all up idling (well, at least moving up one car length at a time every 30 seconds or so). I'd shut her down if it weren't for the fact that I've got the nav system that requires about 15-20 seconds to reboot. I'm really regretting that add-on. At any rate, I still get about 22mpg around town.
On longer trips, I consistently get about 32mpg while using regular, and 36 when using premium. That's about a 12% increase in fuel mileage, and there's generally a .20 to .30 per gallon premium per gallon at the pump between the two grades (I never bother with the mid-grades).
Bottom line is, in the city I burn the cheapest stuff I can get. The kizzy does fine with it (no knocks, stutters, etc). On the highway, I'll ante up for the good stuff - especially with the prices where they are now. There's only a 5% difference in price for a 12% return in performance... well worth it by any measure.
I didn't address the ethanol issue as there really isn't a choice in these parts.
Hope this helps someone out there.
What I have found is that here in DC it doesn't matter what the hell you use for fuel... you burn it all up idling (well, at least moving up one car length at a time every 30 seconds or so). I'd shut her down if it weren't for the fact that I've got the nav system that requires about 15-20 seconds to reboot. I'm really regretting that add-on. At any rate, I still get about 22mpg around town.
On longer trips, I consistently get about 32mpg while using regular, and 36 when using premium. That's about a 12% increase in fuel mileage, and there's generally a .20 to .30 per gallon premium per gallon at the pump between the two grades (I never bother with the mid-grades).
Bottom line is, in the city I burn the cheapest stuff I can get. The kizzy does fine with it (no knocks, stutters, etc). On the highway, I'll ante up for the good stuff - especially with the prices where they are now. There's only a 5% difference in price for a 12% return in performance... well worth it by any measure.
I didn't address the ethanol issue as there really isn't a choice in these parts.
Hope this helps someone out there.
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DelliReeus
- Posts: 118
- Joined: Wed May 23, 2012 3:49 am
- Location: Burbs of Chicago.
I get 35. something mileage on the highway when I'm revin through everyone too, so pretty dope, I'm gonna try the 91 though
2010 AWD/FWD Kizashi S Black Pearl Metallic
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twoqttsdad
- Posts: 212
- Joined: Wed Nov 28, 2012 12:41 am
- Location: Hawaii
I usually fill up on 87 octane E-10. Filled up on my first tankfull of NON ethanol 89 octane gas. Immediately noticed an increase of from 24 mpg to 30 mpg. About a 20% difference. Trying to keep the rpms under 2G to see how much more mpg I can squeeze out of this tank, just for kicks.
I'm get the feeling that this CVT and its current "shift points" is more fuel efficient when the engine is kept below 2,000 rpms as compared to the conventional auto trans. I could be wrong.
I'm get the feeling that this CVT and its current "shift points" is more fuel efficient when the engine is kept below 2,000 rpms as compared to the conventional auto trans. I could be wrong.
2012 SLS
Azure Grey
FWD CVT
Azure Grey
FWD CVT