2012 Kizashi SE - Coolant / heating problem

[Carl-in-NH]

Thanks.

I am going to do a leakdown test within the next few days, before I make the HG replace decision.

I am also going to try to talk to the local (former) Suzuki service manager about tech options (eg engine swap ?)

I do like the car and want to get some more years out of it. Leaving aside repair cost (if I am dumping and getting a replacement car, I am paying thousands for a downpayment anyway), the main concern is: will I get more years out of this car ? (let's say, 5 years/60k miles). So the answer to that is going to drive my decision.

[murcod]

Worst case there are plenty of written off Kizashi's floating around with only panel damage and air bags deployed. But get the radiator cap working again first. You shouldn't be able to squeeze the hoses and get coolant past the cap.

PS: I didn't realise (or rather think about it), but the J24B has an alloy block as well as the head being alloy. http://www.suzuki-forums.com/2g-2006-gr ... ngine.html

http://www.aagaskets.com.au/PDF/BeforeY ... eBlock.pdf <- that might scare you a bit.... and this -> http://www.tuning.mbs.id.au/Engine/alloy_head.htm

[KuroNekko]

I agree with Ronzuki's post. I think a 100% determination of a blown head gasket needs to be made before even thinking about replacing the engine or having a new HG put in. Given the dismal resale value of Suzukis in the US, hard decisions need to be made on what is a worthwhile investment in repair vs. replacement.

Blown HGs have a number of symptoms. Have you seen any?
http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/200

[KansasKid]

Sorry I'm late to the conversation. Is it possible that overfilling the reservoir can cause the reservoir cap to blow off? When I went to top up my reservoir once, I overfilled it by accident. I didn't think it was going to be that big of a deal, and then proceeded to drive 700-ish miles from Kansas City to Colorado. When I got to my destination, I decided to check the engine again, and found the reservoir cap sitting on the lip of the engine compartment, right in front of some sort of air duct.

I find it very unlikely that I forgot to put the cap back on after I topped up the reservoir. So maybe overfilling the reservoir can cause excessive pressure in the system, which blows off the cap?

[Ronzuki]

http://www.aagaskets.com.au/PDF/BeforeY ... eBlock.pdf <- that might scare you a bit.... and this -> http://www.tuning.mbs.id.au/Engine/alloy_head.htm

Some good reads murcod. Thanks. Funny thing that just dawned on me...part of the 30k mile service on my first new Samurai (all alum/alloy engine casts) in 1986 was a head-bolt re-torque as per service manual. Now days, there's never any mention of checking head bolt torque (or anything else for that matter). Back in my Chevy V8 engine building days, one would be a fool not to re-torque head, intake and exhaust manifolds bolts after a few thousand mile break-in. Granted, those were steel/iron components mostly and the adhesives used today weren't around, but still....makes me wonder. When we rebuilt the 1.3 in my brother's Samurai, after a couple trail rides, we went in and re-checked valve lash and re-torqued the head, intake manifold and exhaust header bolts. Everything had a little movement. All hardware in these areas was brand new....just like a brand new factory engine would have.

[murcod]

Sorry I'm late to the conversation. Is it possible that overfilling the reservoir can cause the reservoir cap to blow off? When I went to top up my reservoir once, I overfilled it by accident. I didn't think it was going to be that big of a deal, and then proceeded to drive 700-ish miles from Kansas City to Colorado. When I got to my destination, I decided to check the engine again, and found the reservoir cap sitting on the lip of the engine compartment, right in front of some sort of air duct.

I find it very unlikely that I forgot to put the cap back on after I topped up the reservoir. So maybe overfilling the reservoir can cause excessive pressure in the system, which blows off the cap?

It could be a combination of things. The cap itself doesn't actually have a vent hole in it (although it does appear to have one until you look closely). It is actually fitted with a "air tight" / fluid tight rubber seal. The vent hole appears to be on the very top of the reservoir (in a moulded U shaped section) that is hidden by the cold air intake. If that vent gets blocked then the cap will blow off.

It's not too hard to unbolt the coolant reservoir if you want to check the vent hole isn't obstructed. Coolant has a habit of forming white deposits when it evaporates so a partial blockage of the vent is feasible if you've overfilled the coolant. It might even have not been molded correctly at the factory?

PS: Don't forget, air would be a lot easier to expel through a small hole than excess coolant.

[BxKizashiS]

this has happen to me as well except for the over heating problem.. i look under my hood alot, and i do notice coolant around the reservoir tank, the cap is pretty weak on our cars, this has been happening since i first got the car from the dealer with 1k miles, but anyways i got a performance 1.3 radiator cap from Cusco in replacement of the 1.0 factory one and also got a new reservoir cap. Just got to make sure u hear the click from it closes.. Havent had the problem ever since and i drive once in a blue pretty aggressive. Mayeb your wife has the need for speed lol, but even so it should still be able to hold the coolant

[murcod]

It sounds like Suzuki didn't make the breather hole large enough (or perhaps even the reservoir large enough)- especially with so many people suffering the problem. Other vehicles I've owned have had a hose on the overflow, fitted with like 8mm ID hose (see image below.) The Kizashi just appears to have a tiny hole?



Running the coolant lower than the "max" level would also help.

I might need to siphon some out of mine as the dealer has overfilled it (again.) I don't want to risk losing the cap.

[KuroNekko]

I agree, Murcod. Other cars usually have a hose going into the reservoir and then another going out towards the ground to funnel overflow. The Kizashi's design only has a breather hole and appears not to be designed to handle the excess pressure of a boil-over. Hence, the reservoir cap blows off if pressure builds up from boiling over.
I also find it odd that the Kizashi's overflow reservoir's cap is not hinged or attached to the reservoir neck. Other cars have this design so if it was to blow off, you'd not lose it.

My Kizashi's reservoir coolant level is between max and low and has always been like that since I got it. I thought about getting some extra fluid to fill near max, but thinking about it now, I agree that it might be better to keep it near the middle.

A tip I'd like to share is more a reminder that one should be cutting off the A/C when climbing mountains, steep hills, or doing any driving that's hard on the engine. The A/C consumes engine power so turning it off alleviates some engine stress. This then helps lowers the likelihood of overheating.
The mountain I used to live on was a 5500 ft. climb in less than 30 minutes. The roads had advisory signs about turning off the A/C before climbing.

[murcod]

This will be the second time I've drained coolant out the reservoir! It was delivered with it overfull and they obviously must have overfilled it again at the last service (along with the engine oil....)

There's a good reason why both have a MINIMUM and MAXIMUM level marked - in between the two is where the level should be!!! You'd think mechanics would know better.

I might investigate making some form of strap to retain the reservoir cap? (I agree Suzuki should have built one in to begin with.)

PS: EFI vehicles will normally cut out the A/C compressor depending on the % of throttle opening or revs and (as already noted with the Kizashi) when the engine begins to overheat.