Hi Kelly, glad you got it working again.
As far as cause, I'm not quite sure. It does seem like this issue is a bit temperature dependent, so I think it could be related to the wiring somehow.
I noticed our neighbor in our parking garage that was having the issue was having the problem when she didn't straighten the wheels before turning off the car. I always have the wheels straight when parking and have never had the issue, so that may be something to try since it is the steering lock that seems to malfunction for it to say the error message.
My 2010 Suzi won't start
I often don't have my wheels straight when pulling into a parking spot and shut it down as it sits. Never cranked in a hard turned state, but, also not anywhere near straight either. Never had this message occur. Something's still amiss somewhere.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
![Neutral :|](./images/smilies/icon_neutral.gif)
I got this for the first time today. I know the wheels were straight when I parked. The steering wheel was not hard to turn, it had full movement in both directions. The message wasn't on constantly for me though, when I turned the wheel it would cycle to a service start system message, then show ACC, then cycle back to the turn steering wheel message, but would not start. I tried turning it off and back on multiple times, but that did not do anything. What eventually did it was just opening the door, closing it, and trying again and it immediately started. I plan on lodging a complaint with Suzuki about it since it's clearly a common issue, but is there also another agency to lodge a complaint with since I'm sure Suzuki will basically just tell me to piss off? Maybe if enough people point out the issue they'll have to do something.
Black 2011 Sport SLS AWD
You want to lodge a formal complaint because your six year old car presented a mildly annoying fault one time? You've never had to reboot your computer or phone for no apparent reason? With the insane level of complexity in the systems of modern devices, I think this sort of thing will just be the norm now.
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
A mildly annoying fault that has left many people stranded? You say one time, I say based on the replies in this thread, it was the first of many times, and it is likely going to become more widespread for many of the Kizashis and probably worsen over time. How long before the 'reboot' trick doesn't work anymore? I understand that there are isolated incidents of part failing before they should, but this appears to be a developing pattern to me and signifies a faulty part that is failing earlier in a vehicle's life cycle than what I would consider appropriate. But maybe I have different ideals and cars are now going to be considered nearly as disposable as phones and computers.
Black 2011 Sport SLS AWD
Hi. I am another 2010 Kizashi owner with the same problem. This has happened 4 times since November. When it has happened I have been able to turn the wheel in both directions to no avail. I have not been able to shut it off completely (heat and radio worked) nor lock the doors. It has been back to the dealer 3 times where they have changed the keyfob batteries and taken apart and reprogrammed the steering wheel, (first time it happened they thought it was a communication issue). Then they replaced the alternator (after the second time it happened) and this last time they had it for two weeks and couldn't duplicate the issue so nothing was done. (it happened 2x after the alternator was replaced) So I was curious to know if anyone has found a fix for this issue?
Though my Kizashi has never exhibited these issues, I'm quite sure it's due to malfunctions with the Electronic Steering Column Lock. These issues were quite common in Nissan and Infinitis and there have been many complaints. Coincidentally, the affected Nissan model years were around the model years the Kizashi was sold in the US. And in case you didn't know, Nissan, Suzuki, and Mitsubishi have many of the same parts suppliers. Given that Nissan/Infiniti and Suzuki use the same key fob manufacturer, I'm nearly certain our Suzukis have the same problematic steering column lock maker.
Considering that Nissans are way more popular than Suzukis, it simply makes sense that there are more problematic Nissans, but if the same parts were used, the problem would be present in some Suzukis. And they are.
I think getting this steering column lock mechanism replaced should resolve the issue.
Here are some links related to the Nissan issue that I think many of you can relate to:
http://www.nissanproblems.com/trends/st ... eel-locks/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yy077eLJfXk
https://www.change.org/p/nissan-motor-c ... ock-system
Considering that Nissans are way more popular than Suzukis, it simply makes sense that there are more problematic Nissans, but if the same parts were used, the problem would be present in some Suzukis. And they are.
I think getting this steering column lock mechanism replaced should resolve the issue.
Here are some links related to the Nissan issue that I think many of you can relate to:
http://www.nissanproblems.com/trends/st ... eel-locks/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yy077eLJfXk
https://www.change.org/p/nissan-motor-c ... ock-system
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
Awesome research KuroNekko....thanks for the effort and posting for now and future!
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
![Very Happy :D](./images/smilies/icon_e_biggrin.gif)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
![Neutral :|](./images/smilies/icon_neutral.gif)
No problem. Given the similarities of the issues between the Nissans/Infinitis and the Kizashi, plus the likelihood of the same maker for the steering column lock system, I'm quite convinced this is the mechanism at fault.Ronzuki wrote:Awesome research KuroNekko....thanks for the effort and posting for now and future!
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
Does anybody know for sure exactly where the ESCL is located on our vehicles? On the bottom or topside of the steering column? Can it be replaced independently or is it a sure thing that the whole steering column has gotta go? I just got my Kizashi back from having the CVT replaced and just when I was feeling good about that issue being resolved, I get the harsh reminder this morning that this bullshit steering lock issue is still a problem.
In my case, Suzanne (my Kizashi, as I lovingly refer to her) has this problem when the weather is cold and/or wet. I live in the South Bay/Silicon Valley area and this issue has been slowly getting worse during the fall and winter months. If it's cold in the morning, she won't start. If there's condensation on the car, she won't start. If it's raining in the morning, she won't start. Pretty much anytime she's been parked and cooled down, If there's a combination of any or all of those three weather elements, she more than likely won't start for a while. The column lock warning will come up and no go, even though the steering wheel is free and everything else is firing up just fine. I go through all the motions, opening/closing the driver side door while attempting to start her up and all that other shit we've all tried that normally would make no damn sense, and eventually she will start. But it's gotten to be so consistent now that I'm either gonna have to pony up a shitload of money (again) or drive her off an effin' cliff!!
I guess I've just been looking for a better answer than "I think it was this" and "maybe it was this" or "my mechanic said this and made me pay this to replace this" and all that speculative bullshit. KuroNekko knows what I've known for a while, it's the damn ESCL. And weather/temperature is definitely a factor. I'm guessing it's a short of some kind due to condensation somewhere in the system, but does anybody have any definitive info as to what the actual malfunction is? Is it in fact electrical? Mechanical? Can the lock be bypassed or removed (legally or not) or must it be replaced? I'm sorry if I sound like a bitter bastard. I really don't mean to, but this morning was the last straw. ESPECIALLY after shelling out for a replacement CVT literally yesterday!
And thank you KuroNekko for your assessment of the issue as it is probably THE MOST detailed explanation of it all.
In my case, Suzanne (my Kizashi, as I lovingly refer to her) has this problem when the weather is cold and/or wet. I live in the South Bay/Silicon Valley area and this issue has been slowly getting worse during the fall and winter months. If it's cold in the morning, she won't start. If there's condensation on the car, she won't start. If it's raining in the morning, she won't start. Pretty much anytime she's been parked and cooled down, If there's a combination of any or all of those three weather elements, she more than likely won't start for a while. The column lock warning will come up and no go, even though the steering wheel is free and everything else is firing up just fine. I go through all the motions, opening/closing the driver side door while attempting to start her up and all that other shit we've all tried that normally would make no damn sense, and eventually she will start. But it's gotten to be so consistent now that I'm either gonna have to pony up a shitload of money (again) or drive her off an effin' cliff!!
![Evil or Very Mad :evil:](./images/smilies/icon_evil.gif)
I guess I've just been looking for a better answer than "I think it was this" and "maybe it was this" or "my mechanic said this and made me pay this to replace this" and all that speculative bullshit. KuroNekko knows what I've known for a while, it's the damn ESCL. And weather/temperature is definitely a factor. I'm guessing it's a short of some kind due to condensation somewhere in the system, but does anybody have any definitive info as to what the actual malfunction is? Is it in fact electrical? Mechanical? Can the lock be bypassed or removed (legally or not) or must it be replaced? I'm sorry if I sound like a bitter bastard. I really don't mean to, but this morning was the last straw. ESPECIALLY after shelling out for a replacement CVT literally yesterday!
And thank you KuroNekko for your assessment of the issue as it is probably THE MOST detailed explanation of it all.