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Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
 #50701  by SSHREST4
 Sat Nov 09, 2019 12:23 am
Hello Everyone,
I have a 2012 Suzuki Kizashi AWD with 128K miles. Recently I had an issue with my car where I had multiple cylinder misfiring codes. It was cylinders 2, 3 and 4. I got 3 new ignition coils and 3 new spark plugs. I replaced these parts on cylinders 2, 3 and 4. When I used my reader again, it showed only cylinder 4 is misfiring. I thought maybe the new parts that I got might have come defect and then swapped parts between the cylinders three and four (new ones). Still, engine 4 is showing misfiring. So I assume the coils and spark plugs are fine. Any idea what can be the issue. The car is way smoother but the car jerking can be felt and also the check engine light is on. So, is there any wiring issue or something else since the ignition coil and spark plugs are new and good.

Any help will be appreciated. I have a long trip coming soon and really need to fix my car. Please Help!!!!!

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 #50706  by Woodie
 Sat Nov 09, 2019 12:26 pm
Do a compression test to see if there's an internal problem, broken ring or burned valve. It also could be an injector, you might try swapping those around.
 #50710  by Woodie
 Sun Nov 10, 2019 11:54 am
Injector is a lot like a spark plug although more expensive and harder to get to, in that they can be swapped around between cylinders to see if the error code moves with the injector. Many auto parts stores will lend you a compression gauge, you give them enough money to buy one and they give it back when you return the gauge. Take out all four spark plugs, screw the gauge into each one, hold the throttle wide open and crank the engine over until the gauge stops going up. I don't know what the exact numbers are supposed to be for a Kizashi, but you're looking for a difference between the cylinders. If four is substantially lower than the other three then you've found your misfire. Could be a valve problem requiring a head job. Could be a ring problem requiring an engine rebuild.

If your problem is inside the engine it's time to think really hard about what you're going to do. The CVT transmission was a very bad idea and is unlikely to go 200K miles, I'm not sure I'd spend a lot of money on fixing a Kizashi that's over 100K.
 #50711  by SSHREST4
 Sun Nov 10, 2019 8:18 pm
Thank you for your help @Woodie.
I checked to see if I can switch the fuel injectors but its quite a tough job for Kizashi. I did watch a video online about determining defective fuel injectors by putting a screwdriver on top of the injector and listening to the noise. The video link that I followed is this:
Code: Select allhttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tA_E6X4ISgQ


After watching the video I checked the fuel injectors in a similar fashion and they all sound the same as per my observation.

Also a new thing came up. So, I have two OBD2 readers. One is Bluetooth by FIXD and another one is Hyper Tough OBDII CAN Diagnostic Code Reader (Image is with this message). Now my issue is, I scanned my vehicle with both readers.

FIXD Bluetooth Reader: P304- Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected (This is all I get)
Hyper Tough OBD2 Reader: P300, P302, P303, P304 Misfire Detected

To confirm which OBD2 reader is right, I disconnected my battery from the car for about 2 hours then checked again. The readings are similar to before. FIXD says only P304 whereas the other one says P300 (Random Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire), P303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire) and P304 (Cylinder 4 Misfire).

Which one should I believe?
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 #50712  by Ronzuki
 Sun Nov 10, 2019 9:15 pm
Woodie wrote: Could be a valve problem requiring a head job. Could be a ring problem requiring an engine rebuild.


Or, in the case of 2004+ Jeep I6 engines it, could be round cam lobes (not likely the case with a Suzuki engine) or a possible funky cam position sensor (possible in the zuk). Could be something amiss w/ the VVT system. Curious as to what the FSM's diag procedure says about something like this.

Agree, that repairing anything major at that mileage is, in fact, a waste of money due to the expected CVT life.
 #50715  by Woodie
 Mon Nov 11, 2019 2:23 pm
SSHREST4 wrote:Also a new thing came up. So, I have two OBD2 readers. One is Bluetooth by FIXD and another one is Hyper Tough OBDII CAN Diagnostic Code Reader (Image is with this message). Now my issue is, I scanned my vehicle with both readers.

FIXD Bluetooth Reader: P304- Cylinder 4 Misfire Detected (This is all I get)
Hyper Tough OBD2 Reader: P300, P302, P303, P304 Misfire Detected

To confirm which OBD2 reader is right, I disconnected my battery from the car for about 2 hours then checked again. The readings are similar to before. FIXD says only P304 whereas the other one says P300 (Random Misfire), P302 (Cylinder 2 Misfire), P303 (Cylinder 3 Misfire) and P304 (Cylinder 4 Misfire).

Which one should I believe?

Ahh, the old proverb springs to mind. "A man with a watch always knows what time it is, a man with two watches is never sure."

Could be thaat one is reporting the current problem and the other is reporting the problems stored in memory. The random misfire and specific misfire for all four cylinders makes me think electrical problem. Either a bad ground or a problem with the crankshaft position sensor, which could also be a bad connection. It's never a bad idea to unplug and replug every connector you can get your hands on, and to loosen ground wires and retighten them. Connections go downhill from the second they are first connected. Renewing them might just clear up some problems and doesn't cost you anything.
 #50716  by SAEED_KIZZY
 Mon Nov 11, 2019 7:44 pm
quote from service manual:

•For measuring compression pressure, crank engine up to at least 200 rpm with fully charged battery.
•Check resting position of special tool if measured compression pressure is lower than the limit.
•If the measured compression pressure of particular cylinder is lower than the limit, add a bit of engine oil into the cylinder through the spark plug hole, and then repeat the compression check.
—If the compression pressure increases after adding engine oil, the following may be the cause:
—Pressure leakage due to worn piston rings or worn cylinder
—If the compression pressure does not increase, one of the following may be the causes:
—Incorrect valve timing
—Pressure leakage from the valve or valve seats
—Pressure leakage from the cylinder head gasket

Compression pressure
Standard: 1,400 kPa (14.3 kgf/cm², 203 psi)
Limit: 1,100 kPa (11.2 kgf/cm², 160 psi)
Max. difference between any two cylinders: 100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm², 14.5 psi)
 #50718  by Woodie
 Tue Nov 12, 2019 11:33 am
SAEED_KIZZY wrote:quote from service manual:

Compression pressure
Standard: 1,400 kPa (14.3 kgf/cm², 203 psi)
Limit: 1,100 kPa (11.2 kgf/cm², 160 psi)
Max. difference between any two cylinders: 100 kPa (1.0 kgf/cm², 14.5 psi)

Thanks SAEED_KIZZY, I was lazy and didn't look it up. That's pretty much the same as a Suzuki G engine which I would have quoted off the top of my head.
 #50730  by SSHREST4
 Sat Nov 16, 2019 5:00 pm
I just want to say thank you for all your help. I ordered a Compression tester few days ago and it is arriving tomorrow. I will check the readings and ask for further help. Also, if you could let me know how to do a pressure check in Kizashi. I looked at all videos online regarding Compressor testing but they are about the car with keys but Kizashi has push start. I will explain the process and if you could let me know if there is any other thing I need to do.

Step 1: Run the engine for a while (the video said not to run a compression test on cold start engine)
Step 2: Detach all the ignition coils from the wires and then take all of the ignition coils out and then take out all 4 spark plugs
Step 3: Put the compressor tester on the first hole where the spark plug goes and tighten it (all other three holes are empty).
Step 4: Crank the engine and read the pressure.
Step 5: Record the reading and perform the test on the other three holes.

These are the steps that I could come up with by watching videos online. I did not know how to disable the fuel injector and was wondering someone could give me insight on that.
And also if all the process I mentioned above is correct or not?

Thank you for your help in advance.