Kizashi Club

Your Kizashi Owners Club and Forum 

Let others know about your performance modifications, and help members find the parts they want.
 #50877  by henry5six
 Mon Dec 23, 2019 3:15 pm
I need to rebuild my 2012 Kizashi engine. Does any body have a good source for parts? My only dealer in the Houston area is useless! What I want to do is buy a spare engine and rebuild it, then swap and rebuild the original.
This car has been a rock solid performer and still looks good (to me). I just want to keep it going.
 #50882  by old tech
 Tue Dec 24, 2019 2:48 pm
The engine has not been the weak link on these . Ive seen 273k miles and still working fine with no oil usage . Of the few that failed The things that can kill the engine are (1) lack of oil changes which maybe the reason for t chain stretch that some have had . (2) overheating usually caused by belt tensioer wear letting belt roll off a groove and the belt ribs getting cut right off by sharp water pulley. Then the cylinder head is very quickly warped beyond an affordable repair. Parts for these engines are very pricey and if your engine needs more than a chain set , Id suggest a used engine. Currently All Foreign in Pittsburgh pa has 107k for $500 or Stoystown 18k $900 . If you are set on building one and your cyl head is straight, Id be happy to sell you any used pieces except the head casting itself for just a little over shipping cost.. I have 4 overheated engines for parts and all the cylinder heads warped badly and just arent fixable. If you want to invest in extra driveline parts that you will need one day and your car is a cvt then I would suggest getting a used transmission . One that the primary unit has been inspected and at least has new balls but better yet has been converted to long pin.
 #50893  by KuroNekko
 Thu Dec 26, 2019 6:30 am
I'm a bit confused. Do you need to rebuild the engine or do you want to for preemptive overhauling?
Like Old Tech said, the J24B engine found in every single Kizashi isn't an engine with known problems. It's actually of a rock-solid design with port injection, solid valve lifters, and a metal timing belt. It's a now-dated design that isn't too fuel efficient but it's ideal for longevity. Like Old Tech stated, if the engine is maintained properly and not neglected, the engine should outlast your need for the vehicle. I would just use full synthetic motor oil with a quality oil filter, change it at most every 10,000 miles, and not worry too much. It's what I've been doing.