I recently replaced the clutch in my Kizashi and as such I had the battery disconnected for a few days. Now that I've hooked it all back up the car won't start. It tried to start about 3 times and then I can only assume the immobilizer has activated and now I can't start the car at all. The car is stuck 2 hours away from a Suzuki Dealer.
Do any of you guys know how to unlock the fob so that my stupid car will start again? I've got a spare fob at home, not sure if they are all different or if the 2nd one might work.
Key FOB
When you say "It tried to start 3x" are you saying it cranked but did not fire? Or did it crank, fire and die right away? You further state "I can't start the car at all"... what exactly does that mean? Crank, no crank? Fire, no fire? Sputter, then die?
Is it possible that something electrical other than the battery was disconnected/disturbed and not properly reconnected in the engine bay when the clutch was replaced? Give me an "old fashioned key" any day...
Is it possible that something electrical other than the battery was disconnected/disturbed and not properly reconnected in the engine bay when the clutch was replaced? Give me an "old fashioned key" any day...
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded


1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (

Im taking it as if you didnt hear any starter motor turning . Will crankshaft turn clockwise and counterclockwise using a wrench? If neither direction , something bound up in clutch asm., If it only turns counterclockwise, the alternator froze. I had one do this and because of this push button start system the starter was fed power for a set period of time even though it couldnt turn the engine. It fried the wire off between solenoid and starter motor adding insult to injury.
Oh, that's a nice little bonus feature right there. Another fine example of perfect-world "automotive automation" not being fully thought out. Yep, simple math: no motor current sensing + no fuse or C.B. to trip = the wire IS the fuse.old tech wrote: I had one do this and because of this push button start system the starter was fed power for a set period of time even though it couldn't turn the engine. It fried the wire off between solenoid and starter motor adding insult to injury.
Again, I'll take a simple key any day.
Any rate, lots of good ideas of things to look at for before blaming other expensive electronics.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded


1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (

Sorry I should have been more descriptive, yes it was firing. It sounded like it really wanted to start however the battery was flat for being out of the car so long. We attempted it as many times as possible, it was sluggish but turning over no worries. We bought a new battery and placed that in. But now it seems to be just turning over without firing. I'm currently a ways away from the car but I'll try the other suggestions on here tomorrow when I can get down to my dads garage where it's being stored.
If the FOB wasn't detected to crank the engine, the HUD would indicate that as the cause of refusing to even crank, so it and the immobilizer components are not likely the culprit, unless, there was a disturbance created in any associated wiring during the clutch replacement process. You had indicated replacing the clutch was a pain. That, to me, can mean simply gaining access to do the deed was rather cumbersome.
You have something else going on. How much disassembly was required to replace the clutch? Everything electro-mechanically tight and sound with regards to the starter's wiring?
I feel that if it cranked, fired, and ran ok before the clutch replacement, and now it doesn't after the clutch was replaced, then something was disturbed (intentionally or not) during the process. The ECM and its harness is located above the trans. Was it disconnected, moved aside, harness manipulated to make room to work, or anything of that sort?
You have something else going on. How much disassembly was required to replace the clutch? Everything electro-mechanically tight and sound with regards to the starter's wiring?
I feel that if it cranked, fired, and ran ok before the clutch replacement, and now it doesn't after the clutch was replaced, then something was disturbed (intentionally or not) during the process. The ECM and its harness is located above the trans. Was it disconnected, moved aside, harness manipulated to make room to work, or anything of that sort?
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded


1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
