Jatco Transmission in the Kizashi

[LPSISRL]

I'm not sure if I've seen this anywhere on the forum, but the transmission in the Kizashi is the JATCO JF011E.
(JATCO=Japanese Automatic Transmission Company)
http://www.jatco.co.jp/ENGLISH/products/cvt/jf011e.html

[img][/img]

[Ronzuki]

Nice pic. Also shows a nice cut-away of the TC...thanks for posting!
The topic has come up many times before (mostly under failure topics) and those who've been following should be aware of the brand and model, but this a nice reminder. Have you found anywhere info on the JATCO recommended service interval and/or procedure?

[LPSISRL]

In following down some links, I found a .pdf of the service manual. I'll see if I can find it again.
Edit: found the site again, but it wants me to pay for it.

[KuroNekko]

I wouldn't be surprised if this same transmission is in some Nissan models. JATCO was founded by Nissan engineers and was even under Nissan until they diverged. Regardless, many Nissan automatics are CVTs sourced from JATCO.

While CVTs seem to have their issues at times, it's not only JATCO CVTs. There are many complaints with Audi CVTs sourced from another maker.

[LPSISRL]

This exact model is in many different cars. Nissans, Mitsubishi, Jeep, Dodge, etc. Most program it with their own electronics.
Recently, Nissan has extended the warranty on all models year 2003-2010 on the cvt to 10 years/120,000 miles. So Nissan is pretty sure that they're going to hold up.

[KansasKid]

Is this a CVT transmission, or the Manual one? It sounds like from some of the other posts its a CVT. I would assume that they are different, but I am a little naive about such things...

[KuroNekko]

Is this a CVT transmission, or the Manual one? It sounds like from some of the other posts its a CVT. I would assume that they are different, but I am a little naive about such things...

That's the CVT transmission. The cut-aways that show the internals give it away clearly. At the top back of the transmission, you can see the metal bands on the pulleys. The CVT works by continuously varying the ratios of the bands between the pulleys. This acts as gearing without the gears.
The other give-away is the front cut-away showing the white disc and what's inside. That's the torque converter. It works by using the transmission fluid to actually transfer the power between the engine and transmission. Torque converters are found in conventional automatic transmissions as well. It's also the reason why you want to flush your transmission once in a while to make sure all deposits, sludge, etc. get out of the torque converter. A mere transmission fluid change does not do that well because in a simple drain and refill of the transmission, the fluid in the TC remains in the TC. A flush requires a special machine that takes the fluid out in a more complete manner.

A manual transmission would show gear cogs (instead of the metal bands and pulleys) and a clutch disc along with a pressure plate (instead of a torque converter).

I can't blame you for getting confused. CVTs are generally more compact than conventional automatics, much like a manual transmission. They look more alike in size, I think.

Here's Suzuki's clip on CVTs (these company-made clips always make the CVT sound like rockstars):

[youtube][/youtube]



Here's a more technical explanation:

[youtube][/youtube]

[AirRideFan]

Soooo.....I'm coming up on 150k miles as of today on my 2012 Sport SLS (it's been the best car I've ever owned)--- however, I'm pretty worried about the fluid/filter being FUBAR in my car. Any chance I could drive it up to Northeastern PA to have you do a filter/fluid change? Not sure who I trust to do it around here in Pittsburgh.

[old tech]

generally these transmissions last on average 120 to 130,000 miles before the primary pulley assembly ended up breaking. That’s not to say all of these will fail at 120. I have seen a few near 200,000 now but it’s just not too often. The longevity of these transmissions rely on three things. How it’s being treated , how it’s being maintained, and lastly the original fit of the primary parts. What I would suggest is to drain the fluid into a container , next pull the pan and inspect the floor and pickup screen for debris. By analyzing the debris in the pan someone can tell whether the primary is on its way out. When the six hardened steel balls start to peel, the fragments get forced through the piston ring and eventually end up in the bottom of the pan. Just a little bit of this is a good indicator that it can be saved. If there’s a lot of it, The primary would probably end up needing replaced. Along with the flow control valve and possibly the belt. The reason for draining the fluid into a container is so that if it looks bad and you want to make other plans without wasting money on new fluid, the old fluid can be put back in. Transmission refurbish vary in price but in my shop if your primary is reusable the job is $1000 and in the worst case scenario it’s $1900 but would include a year warranty. If pan floor and screen look good and just fluid service is needed.$120 which would include fluid . I’m in n/w pa. 1/2 hr south of Erie and close to Ohio line. Pm me if you want to set up anything.


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