First you’ll need to get a total measurement. Take a tape measure from one side to the other , pick out a certain tread then,as high from the floor as you can without interference on the front side of the tire take a measurement then go to the back side of the tire at the same height at the same tire groove, take another measurement. The front side is supposed to be a 16th of an inch shorter distance. With 130,000 miles I’m finding these things to be out sometimes nearly a half of an inch of where they should be. We will use that number right now for illustration purposes. Now raise the car to working height and you can measure across the front side of the tire again which will have changed drastically just by lifting the car and write that measurement down. If we want to change the total toe a of a half an inch then what we’re going to be looking to change on this measurement is half of that so a 1/4 of an inch difference is what we’re looking for . Now you divide that between the two wheels to keep your centerline or thrust angle so an 1/8 of an inch correction on each wheel . This type of adjusters are usually frozen by rust but by loosening the nut on the rear side of the arm (use heat if you have to just make sure you don’t snap it off)then going to the front side using a new 6 point 17 mm socket and the longest breaker bar you can come up with you can force it to turn .
On the right rear you’ll be turning it counterclockwise . It will a bit of strength to turn and will most likely make a loud crack noise . I find that 2 of the crack noises and it will be just about right. I live in a very high salt use area and have yet to see one of these adjusters that isn’t froze but yet as little as you need to move them it can be done. Now do the same on the left rear only you will be turning that one clockwise. Don’t forget to retighten your jam nuts. Now lower to the floor and roll it back-and-forth a few times and re-check your measurements . You want to end up with 0 to 1/16 of an inch toe in. The adjusters on the square aluminum control alarms is used for adjusting camber or tilt Unless the camber is obviously out just by looking at it I don’t suggest moving it due to the risk of breakage. Camber itself is not a wearing angle if camber is adjusted it must be done before the toe adjustment. Alignment shops like all these adjusters to work like new but it will get very expensive really quick . If the toe adjusters really can’t be forced to move anymore , a turn buckle unit can be scarfed from an old camry and welded into the arm but I haven’t had to do this yet 
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk. I recently had to use this method of repair on the right rear of a Kizashi where the toe adjuster was maxed out and needed more toe in . I cut 6 inches out of lateral link and welded a turn buckle swiped from a worn out Camry link . This worked fantastic
Doing this as a customer repair would cost a total of $100 for one side done and adjusted
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Here is the stuff I’m running into. 
Alignment shop tried to loosen but without using heat and snapped it off . ...Thanks