Thank you guys. Car has 69K miles. Mostly driving work-home on I-95 (My commute is 50 miles each way). No modifications to car. I had 30K and 60K servicing done at Suzuki dealer (who is now closed Suzuki dealership but still open servicing other cars). Have been pretty regular on oil changes. Sadly, I don't keep any documents but I can probably get those from my old dealer.
I am trying to get them in writing on denying the warranty. I am trying to contact Consumer Protection Services (not sure if they actually do anything). Also Suzuki has an arbitration that I am planning to contact.
Thanks for advice on towing it to a different mechanic. I will definitely do that.
Thanks a lot for the help.
Engine died. Help
Definitely best to find out exactly what went wrong. I'd trust an experienced independent mechanic to give me the no-bull answer.msr wrote:Thank you guys. Car has 69K miles. Mostly driving work-home on I-95 (My commute is 50 miles each way). No modifications to car. I had 30K and 60K servicing done at Suzuki dealer (who is now closed Suzuki dealership but still open servicing other cars). Have been pretty regular on oil changes. Sadly, I don't keep any documents but I can probably get those from my old dealer.
I am trying to get them in writing on denying the warranty. I am trying to contact Consumer Protection Services (not sure if they actually do anything). Also Suzuki has an arbitration that I am planning to contact.
Thanks for advice on towing it to a different mechanic. I will definitely do that.
Thanks a lot for the help.
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
I'd give Jeff D'Ambrosio a call in Frazer, PA (not the huge Downingtown store) for a second opinion on something of this magnitude. They have never given me any grief about anything warranty related, which tells me they have a good working relationship with the Suzuki reps. Their factory trained zuk automobile tech still works there even though they don't sell new zuks any longer. They do a lot of service work there for Chrysler products as they've always sold them. You'll likely have to spring for a tow to get it there since it's dead in order for them to be able to diagnose what led up to this mysterious overheating w/o warning. I'd trust them to work in your best interest. If they say it's denied, then you're screwed for sure.fjroman2 wrote:It sounds to me like the dealer is trying to give you the old "ole"...any chance there is another dealer you can talk to? Where are you located?
http://www.gojeffsuzuki.com/dealership/directions.htm
Ask for Tony and explain everything to him. This is also a Suzuki motorcycle dealer and repair shop, so, if a woman answers the phone in service, she's not going to know much about navigating the warranty issues on the cars, she's primarily cycles. Ray may answer, he's primarily the body shop guy, but also knows how to deal w/ the car side of things if Tony isn't there when you call.
Good luck.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded


1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (

Did you leave the maintenance completely up to other people? Or did you also 'double-check' their work? Something tells me the dealership messed up and they'd have to eat the engine, so they're saying Suzuki denied the claim, which they did since the dealership screwed up.
If this is the case, makes even a better case for doing things yourself. Also, a very sad example of how service sucks these days.
If this is the case, makes even a better case for doing things yourself. Also, a very sad example of how service sucks these days.
Hi all, I have exactly the same happening to me, only at 190.000 km.
Driving on the highway, engine just died without drama, no rattles, no smoke. After this it does not start and while starting it runs 'light' as if not making any compression.
Car is at an independant garage (former Suzuki dealer) and they did not have time yet to look at it in full.
However their first glance made them say: 'no coolant, possible crack in engine'.
At this milage this is probably the end for my 2012 Kizashi, it is a very rare car in the Netherlands with only 150 cars sold.
Fixing it will likely be more than the actual value of the car.
Driving on the highway, engine just died without drama, no rattles, no smoke. After this it does not start and while starting it runs 'light' as if not making any compression.
Car is at an independant garage (former Suzuki dealer) and they did not have time yet to look at it in full.
However their first glance made them say: 'no coolant, possible crack in engine'.
At this milage this is probably the end for my 2012 Kizashi, it is a very rare car in the Netherlands with only 150 cars sold.
Fixing it will likely be more than the actual value of the car.
You most likely don’t have any compression, and this could be caused typically by two different scenarios. The first one is possibly your drive belt came off and got wrapped around the crank, pulley and stuff into the crank seal, jumping the timing chain, putting it out of time. I have had this happen and if you are really lucky hasn’t gone far enough to bend the valves, but it can also go far enough to bend valves, especially if repeating attempts on restart, dragging it further and further of time. The second scenario is the car overheated and now you have no compression because the head no longer seals to the block. This is usually a pretty dramatic overheat with steam engine, knocking from high temperature so I think the first scenario is more likely the valve cover should be removed and the valve clearances checked as the engine can be turned over by hand checking the valve lash. If they are excessive then the valves have bent and the head has to come off. If you do not have any extra clearances, then the timing can be checked and actually corrected without even removing the front cover but only if they trap the chain tensioner first. I have had to do a few times on these. Most technicians do not know about how to hold that tensioner in place.
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