Electrical problems

[murcod]

That would most likely be 1400W peak power - so basically the power it can generate for a split second. If you haven't got the volume cranked up it won't be drawing much current at all.

(I've got a feeling that none of the listed problems are actually related, it's all just coincidental - and "normal" CVT type issues.)

[Ronzuki]

hmmm... my CVT equipped car exhibits none of these "normal" issues. After reading many, many threads regarding weird electrical issues, the common factor always seems to be a modification of one sort or the other. The solution: sorry to say but, stop messing around with the wiring in modern day vehicles. It's tough enough to diagnose when a factory installed part is malfunctioning, Throw in non-factory parts and all bets are off.

[murcod]

hmmm... my CVT equipped car exhibits none of these "normal" issues. After reading many, many threads regarding weird electrical issues, the common factor always seems to be a modification of one sort or the other. The solution: sorry to say but, stop messing around with the wiring in modern day vehicles. It's tough enough to diagnose when a factory installed part is malfunctioning, Throw in non-factory parts and all bets are off.

Even another CVT owner said in this thread they get similar behaviour

I would agree with Kuro. The shudder coming to a stop is common with CVT Kizashis, especially if you're braking a little hard. There are other posts about it. However, the RPMs are not dipping as low as your's.

There's a big discussion on it here http://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewto ... =12&t=1018

I have seen mine do that 5/1000 stops.

I used to have an old car, that did that always... it was the idle dropped too low on every stop.

My Kizashi does that a few times... seems almost like it's going to stall (I see the tach drop slightly), then instantly recovers...

Today, I tested it....

Consistently, 10/10 attempts, if you accelerate off the line by flooring it, then stopping short after hitting 10-20 mph... the tack will drop 250 RPM (From 1000-750) or (750 to 500) depending on how high the engine temp is, and you will feel the 'shudder'.

I did read the owner's manual and it mentions "To Save Fuel, avoid Jack Rabbit stops and starts." however, it does not mention any idling problems.

You all think it's the CVT programming?

Electrically disconnect the amp (even just remove the fuse), the same for the HID lights and go for a test drive. See if the problem is still there or if it has vanished.

[BxKizashiS]

Web search "Stinger Alternators" they have for Kizashi.. I have 3 amps, 6 speakers and two 12" subs in my car and i never got electrical problems, maybe cuz i have base model Kizashi and dont have all the features, but i do plan on upgrading my alternator anywayz... And me being an MECP Autotech, i would never recommend a capacitor to anyone, to me its pointless.., nor will i recommend an Optima battery.. Get a Kinetik or Shuriken battery

[murcod]

The Optima is still a huge improvement over the stock battery. The red top I fitted cranks over significantly faster than the stock battery.

[Moto]

I don't really know if the problems listed by the OP are related to lack of power from the battery. I don't think an Optima will do anything to solve the problems. I run a Red top in my saabaru. It cranks way quicker, but if you do some reading it Optima batteries aren't all they are cracked up to be.

[murcod]

Sorry, I wasn't suggesting the battery is the problem. The owner needs to do some more testing before any conclusions can be formed.

I was just pointing out the stock batteries suck and anything half decent would be an improvement (in reply to BxKizashiS's post).

[Ronzuki]

The Optima is still a huge improvement over the stock battery. The red top I fitted cranks over significantly faster than the stock battery.

Ditto

[Ronzuki]

hmmm... my CVT equipped car exhibits none of these "normal" issues. After reading many, many threads regarding weird electrical issues, the common factor always seems to be a modification of one sort or the other. The solution: sorry to say but, stop messing around with the wiring in modern day vehicles. It's tough enough to diagnose when a factory installed part is malfunctioning, Throw in non-factory parts and all bets are off.

Even another CVT owner said in this thread they get similar behaviour

I would agree with Kuro. The shudder coming to a stop is common with CVT Kizashis, especially if you're braking a little hard. There are other posts about it. However, the RPMs are not dipping as low as your's.

There's a big discussion on it here http://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewto ... =12&t=1018

I have seen mine do that 5/1000 stops.

I used to have an old car, that did that always... it was the idle dropped too low on every stop.

My Kizashi does that a few times... seems almost like it's going to stall (I see the tach drop slightly), then instantly recovers...

Today, I tested it....

Consistently, 10/10 attempts, if you accelerate off the line by flooring it, then stopping short after hitting 10-20 mph... the tack will drop 250 RPM (From 1000-750) or (750 to 500) depending on how high the engine temp is, and you will feel the 'shudder'.

I did read the owner's manual and it mentions "To Save Fuel, avoid Jack Rabbit stops and starts." however, it does not mention any idling problems.

You all think it's the CVT programming?

Electrically disconnect the amp (even just remove the fuse), the same for the HID lights and go for a test drive. See if the problem is still there or if it has vanished.

I wonder if there's any link to this problem and the CVT module re-flash many people had done early on in hopes of fixing 'the lag'. There's no way for the average owner of a second hand Kizashi to know if the reflash was done. I never had it done since I saw by those who had it done. It wasn't broke, so I saw no reason to fix it. My car was built in March 2010 and still has the factory loaded CVT module software.