Let's Figure Out the Headlight Bulb Issue

[murcod]

Here's something of interest from a bulb manufacturer's site:

How do I maximise the life of my Automotive Bulb?

To achieve maximum life from an automotive bulb there are some important points to consider.

Rule of thumb
• 5% over-voltage halves the bulb life.
• Headlamp bulbs are rated at 13.2 volts. Signal & Marker bulbs are rated at 13.5 volts.
• Light output of a tungsten filament light source is dependent on voltage. Low voltage causes low output and low life, especially for Halogen bulbs, because regeneration does not occur.
• Overvoltage causes excessive tungsten erosion and significantly shortens bulb life.

http://www.hella.co.nz/Resources/library/01)_WEBSITE_NEW_IMAGES_2010/01)_Home/03)_Downloads/Catalogue_2010_section_PDFs/Bulbs_2010.pdf - page 242

So an overvoltage of only 5% (ie. 13.86V) will half the bulb life . I'm thinking that could be the problem.

PS: Improving the vehicle wiring will only exacerbate the high voltage at the bulb (if that is the problem.)

[murcod]

Here are the alternator specs:

Generator
Rated voltage 12 V
Nominal output 130 A
Max. permissible speed 18,000 rpm
No-load speed 1,500 rpm
Regulated voltage 14.2 – 14.8 V
Permissible ambient temperature range –30 to 90 °C (–22 to 194 °F)
Polarity Negative (–) ground
Rotation Clockwise viewed from pulley side

[murcod]

It's a common problem on Hyundai I30's - see here :
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1778748
http://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/inde ... c=6124.270

On page 10 (reply #281) of the last link Hyundai introduced a wiring loom (incorporating resistors) to reduce the bulb voltage down from 14.4v.

[~tc~]

IMHO, too LOW a voltage at the headlight is much more likely the problem based on the itty bitty wiring inside the headlight.

[KuroNekko]

I also agree with ~tc~ that it's more likely an issue of too low of a voltage. Keep in mind I have DRL issues that would not occur had the alternator made more power. While it can be seen as only a DRL issue with my LEDs, keep in mind that the flickering goes away when the engine RPM increases and the alternator is forced to make more power. Basically, while idling or at low RPMs, it's not making enough stable voltage to keep my DRL LEDs sufficiently powered. Hence, I need capacitors to stabilize the voltage. If this is the effect the alternator and battery have on my LEDs, imagine the kind of voltage and effect they have on filaments in halogens.

Also, regardless of whether the issue is too low of a voltage or too high, the proposed solutions would either be a capacitor or relay harness (for too low) or a resistor (for too high) which bring us back to my argument of HID superiority: If you are going to bother with installing capacitors, relays, or resistors just to keep your craptastic halogens, why not upgrade to HID?
Keep in mind that HIDs don't have filaments which are the Achilles' heel here with halogens. They emit their light via an arc created in a chemical gas discharge. While HIDs are still sensitive to voltage, components like the Morimoto HD Relay harness resolve potential issues and it comes standard as part of the kit. With no filaments to compromise bulb durability, these HID bulbs last considerably longer than halogens all while outputting way more light.
Just saying... *walks away while whistling*

[bootymac]

Here's something of interest from a bulb manufacturer's site:

How do I maximise the life of my Automotive Bulb?

To achieve maximum life from an automotive bulb there are some important points to consider.

Rule of thumb
• 5% over-voltage halves the bulb life.
• Headlamp bulbs are rated at 13.2 volts. Signal & Marker bulbs are rated at 13.5 volts.
• Light output of a tungsten filament light source is dependent on voltage. Low voltage causes low output and low life, especially for Halogen bulbs, because regeneration does not occur.
• Overvoltage causes excessive tungsten erosion and significantly shortens bulb life.

http://www.hella.co.nz/Resources/library/01)_WEBSITE_NEW_IMAGES_2010/01)_Home/03)_Downloads/Catalogue_2010_section_PDFs/Bulbs_2010.pdf - page 242

So an overvoltage of only 5% (ie. 13.86V) will half the bulb life . I'm thinking that could be the problem.

PS: Improving the vehicle wiring will only exacerbate the high voltage at the bulb (if that is the problem.)

Good find! It seems that both high and low voltage will reduce a halogen bulb's life. It would be interesting to take some voltage readings under different conditions to see what numbers we're seeing.

[murcod]

KuroNekko- Okay, SamirD asked a question about keeping his HALOGEN bulbs alive longer. He's already said he doesn't want to go down the HID path (and there are plenty of other posts on HID if he does change his mind!)

So let's keep to the topic.

[SamirD]

Here's something of interest from a bulb manufacturer's site:

How do I maximise the life of my Automotive Bulb?

To achieve maximum life from an automotive bulb there are some important points to consider.

Rule of thumb
• 5% over-voltage halves the bulb life.
• Headlamp bulbs are rated at 13.2 volts. Signal & Marker bulbs are rated at 13.5 volts.
• Light output of a tungsten filament light source is dependent on voltage. Low voltage causes low output and low life, especially for Halogen bulbs, because regeneration does not occur.
• Overvoltage causes excessive tungsten erosion and significantly shortens bulb life.

http://www.hella.co.nz/Resources/library/01)_WEBSITE_NEW_IMAGES_2010/01)_Home/03)_Downloads/Catalogue_2010_section_PDFs/Bulbs_2010.pdf - page 242

So an overvoltage of only 5% (ie. 13.86V) will half the bulb life . I'm thinking that could be the problem.

PS: Improving the vehicle wiring will only exacerbate the high voltage at the bulb (if that is the problem.)

Very good info! That overvoltage in the form of a spike is what I think killed both my bulbs. If grounding makes spikes and surges less common, then better grounding should help.

Very interesting info on the low voltage. I wonder if the Kizashi designers took this into account when designing the DRL system that uses the high beam bulbs?

[SamirD]

Here are the alternator specs:

Generator
Rated voltage 12 V
Nominal output 130 A
Max. permissible speed 18,000 rpm
No-load speed 1,500 rpm
Regulated voltage 14.2 – 14.8 V
Permissible ambient temperature range –30 to 90 °C (–22 to 194 °F)
Polarity Negative (–) ground
Rotation Clockwise viewed from pulley side

How would one test the voltage regulator? That's the point of failure on other cars with a similar issue originating in the alternator.

[SamirD]

It's a common problem on Hyundai I30's - see here :
http://forums.whirlpool.net.au/archive/1778748
http://www.i30ownersclub.com/forum/inde ... c=6124.270

On page 10 (reply #281) of the last link Hyundai introduced a wiring loom (incorporating resistors) to reduce the bulb voltage down from 14.4v.

Great find! I'm glad I don't have one of those cars--seems like they were blowing a bulb every few weeks and had to go to the dealership to change the bulbs.

I saw the factory solution in that post, but don't see Suzuki coming up with one. The other solution was HIDs.