Kizashi Club

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Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
 #46744  by Ronzuki
 Wed Mar 21, 2018 9:36 pm
The shocks I'm speaking of are utilized in street applications. Not limited in any way, no more so than the Kizashi's. The only difference is the bump stops wrapped around the K's pistons. Both my samurais had exposed shaft shocks. The first was only street driven year round here in salty PA. Fronts installed shafts up. Rears inverted, shaft down. In stock form a samurai rides like a roller skate due to very short leafs, so not a whole lot of long range rod wiping going on there, much like the K and probably less. Always passed safety inspections. And shocks are something they love to fail.

IDK, just seems wrong to me. If the quality of the rod's plating (if it's even plated) was much better than it is, I think we'd be OK even w/ the old bump stop.

I had upgraded a hard chrome plating line controls at Caterpillar just before they packed up the plant and moved south many, many years ago. There are definitely swings in the processes relating to electro-plating. Depending on the parts they were running, of which there were countless, the process controls were often different.

Wonder if there's a way to install some bump stops that are divorced from the shock...
 #48449  by alexbtl
 Wed Dec 12, 2018 10:39 pm
I am a newbie here but I am a silent viewer of this forum, driver side rear wheel in my Kizashi started creaking right when I reached 51000 miles last week and I feel like my rear suspension is shot as the car doesn't drive the same way it used to, this creaking and squatting in the rear happens every-time I drove over a bump or dip and it amplifies when I carry passengers in the rear seat, I just started searching for rear shocks, before I order parts, i would like to know from folks who bought rear Bump stops, if there is any way to find out if I am not buying the same old defective OE Bump stops , wondering if the part numbers of defective OE Bump stop and the new ones are different, also would like to know if I can use KYB Bump stop with OE shocks. any answers to my questions would be much appreciated.

Alex
 #48450  by OliverB
 Thu Dec 13, 2018 2:24 am
alexbtl wrote:I am a newbie here but I am a silent viewer of this forum, driver side rear wheel in my Kizashi started creaking right when I reached 51000 miles last week and I feel like my rear suspension is shot as the car doesn't drive the same way it used to, this creaking and squatting in the rear happens every-time I drove over a bump or dip and it amplifies when I carry passengers in the rear seat, I just started searching for rear shocks, before I order parts, i would like to know from folks who bought rear Bump stops, if there is any way to find out if I am not buying the same old defective OE Bump stops , wondering if the part numbers of defective OE Bump stop and the new ones are different, also would like to know if I can use KYB Bump stop with OE shocks. any answers to my questions would be much appreciated.

Alex


What about your swaybar end links?
 #48458  by Woodie
 Thu Dec 13, 2018 1:09 pm
Here's a picture of the ones I bought.The part # ending in L03 is the new and improved bumper, the original ended with L01. I paid about $70 for the pair.

Image
 #48464  by alexbtl
 Thu Dec 13, 2018 4:54 pm
OliverB wrote:
alexbtl wrote:I am a newbie here but I am a silent viewer of this forum, driver side rear wheel in my Kizashi started creaking right when I reached 51000 miles last week and I feel like my rear suspension is shot as the car doesn't drive the same way it used to, this creaking and squatting in the rear happens every-time I drove over a bump or dip and it amplifies when I carry passengers in the rear seat, I just started searching for rear shocks, before I order parts, i would like to know from folks who bought rear Bump stops, if there is any way to find out if I am not buying the same old defective OE Bump stops , wondering if the part numbers of defective OE Bump stop and the new ones are different, also would like to know if I can use KYB Bump stop with OE shocks. any answers to my questions would be much appreciated.

Alex


What about your swaybar end links?


I kind of know how a a bad swaybar link will behave, you will here noise when turning the steering, but that's not the case in my car, my car drives normal and makes noise in the rear only when I drive over a bump or dip and I can feel the rear shocks compressing way too much all the way up to the point where it hits the top of rear shocks and is very rough.
 #48465  by KuroNekko
 Thu Dec 13, 2018 5:52 pm
alexbtl wrote:I am a newbie here but I am a silent viewer of this forum, driver side rear wheel in my Kizashi started creaking right when I reached 51000 miles last week and I feel like my rear suspension is shot as the car doesn't drive the same way it used to, this creaking and squatting in the rear happens every-time I drove over a bump or dip and it amplifies when I carry passengers in the rear seat, I just started searching for rear shocks, before I order parts, i would like to know from folks who bought rear Bump stops, if there is any way to find out if I am not buying the same old defective OE Bump stops , wondering if the part numbers of defective OE Bump stop and the new ones are different, also would like to know if I can use KYB Bump stop with OE shocks. any answers to my questions would be much appreciated.

Alex


Which Kizashi do you have? The Sport models have different shocks and struts than the normal Kizashi. While the KYB aftermarket shocks will fit either type of Kizashi, they were designed for the normal Kizashi and not the Sport models. The OE shocks actually have different part numbers.

As Woodie showed, the revised bump stoppers have a different part number from the defective ones. It's possible that aftermarket parts from KYB may have the revised design but I'm not certain on that.
 #48470  by OliverB
 Thu Dec 13, 2018 10:38 pm
alexbtl wrote:
I kind of know how a a bad swaybar link will behave, you will here noise when turning the steering, but that's not the case in my car, my car drives normal and makes noise in the rear only when I drive over a bump or dip and I can feel the rear shocks compressing way too much all the way up to the point where it hits the top of rear shocks and is very rough.


I don't see how you could potentially hear your rear swaybar links crack when you are steering because obviously your rear wheels do not turn...

I thought my shock absorbers were to blame for the same issue you have described. Turns out it was the swaybar links. I ended up changing the shock absorbers anyway because I tend to go all out when purchasing a used car. Regarding the bump stops, you can always carve the top to make it look like the updated ones.
 #48480  by KuroNekko
 Fri Dec 14, 2018 4:54 am
OliverB wrote:
alexbtl wrote:
I kind of know how a a bad swaybar link will behave, you will here noise when turning the steering, but that's not the case in my car, my car drives normal and makes noise in the rear only when I drive over a bump or dip and I can feel the rear shocks compressing way too much all the way up to the point where it hits the top of rear shocks and is very rough.


I don't see how you could potentially hear your rear swaybar links crack when you are steering because obviously your rear wheels do not turn...


I think he means when the vehicle is in a curve rather than turning. While turning right from a stop, yes, the sway bars don't do much but driving in curves like a windy road or a cloverleaf interchange on-ramp at higher speeds? The sway bars and their components certainly have an effect.

OliverB wrote:Regarding the bump stops, you can always carve the top to make it look like the updated ones.


Eh, not really sure if that will prevent the problem. The revised bump stoppers not only have drainage slots on the top and sides but also have a different diameter of the inner bore for the shock shaft.
 #48494  by alexbtl
 Fri Dec 14, 2018 10:45 pm
KuroNekko wrote:
OliverB wrote:
alexbtl wrote:
I kind of know how a a bad swaybar link will behave, you will here noise when turning the steering, but that's not the case in my car, my car drives normal and makes noise in the rear only when I drive over a bump or dip and I can feel the rear shocks compressing way too much all the way up to the point where it hits the top of rear shocks and is very rough.


I don't see how you could potentially hear your rear swaybar links crack when you are steering because obviously your rear wheels do not turn...


I think he means when the vehicle is in a curve rather than turning. While turning right from a stop, yes, the sway bars don't do much but driving in curves like a windy road or a cloverleaf interchange on-ramp at higher speeds? The sway bars and their components certainly have an effect.

OliverB wrote:Regarding the bump stops, you can always carve the top to make it look like the updated ones.


Eh, not really sure if that will prevent the problem. The revised bump stoppers not only have drainage slots on the top and sides but also have a different diameter of the inner bore for the shock shaft.



I have SE AWD CVT which I use for winter commute only, yes you are right, the sway bar links make a cracking metal rubbing noise when you stop then move your car little bit front or reverse and turn the wheel, My car makes creaking noise only when I drive over a bump or dip on a straight line, it squats in the rear every time I drive over a bump or dip, it's easy to tell it is rear shocks, it could be cracked Coil spring also, I haven't taken a look at it yet
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