Leaking transfer case

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kizzy1
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2014 12:53 pm

I took the Kizashi in for an oil change and the service tech informed me that it appears there is a leak at the transfer case. He believes it is probably a pinion seal (bear with me here as my mechanical skills are limited). He said the leak isn't severe and he checked the fluid in the transfer case and it appeared to be full (leak apparently isn't too bad at this point).

I called Suzuki and was told that it SHOULD be a warranty item (2010 model with 63,000 miles). I was given the option of traveling to the nearest repair dealer (200 miles away) OR having a local shop prepare a quote (shop has to be ASE certified and they must use genuine Suzuki parts) for the repair and Suzuki would authorize the repair if it met their "criteria" for cost. If approved I'd have to pay for the repair upfront and Suzuki would reimburse me (up to the "approved" amount).

My brother (who owns 2 all-wheel-drive vehicles) said ALL of them eventually develop pinion seal leaks...most aren't serious enough to worry about and owners just periodically check to see that the oil level is OK. He said that repaired seals just leak again after awhile. This may be true but this car is still under warranty and I want it fixed.

Suzuki is giving me a couple of options here. I can simply go to the dealer (need to take a day off work) or use a shop in town that I trust (my "go to" place which services my cars...they seem to be honest and competent). I'd prefer to just let the local shop do the work...if Suzuki approves their estimate. I'm dropping it off tomorrow for them to take a look at it.

From what the dealership told me, the dealerships still servicing Suzuki vehicles have no obligation to continue servicing Suzuki vehicles...and can pull the plug and tell Suzuki to get bent if it becomes more trouble than it's worth (and the "local" dealership I spoke to said they're getting close to that...can't guarantee how long they'll keep it up). The person at Suzuki stated that although Suzuki committed to servicing it's vehicles through their warranty period, the dealerships are under no obligation to continue servicing the vehicles.

Theoretically, they could ALL say screw it and that would be the end of it...no dealerships no more warranty repairs. That coupled with the potentially expensive repairs in the future have me again wondering if keeping the car for the long haul makes any sense. I have to wonder what the Saab owners are doing for repairs on their vehicles (that company no longer exists).

I still love this car but stuff like this makes me wonder about getting rid of it.
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Ronzuki
Posts: 2383
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Location: Lancaster County, PA

couple things....

I'd say you have nothing to lose by the actions you've taken thus far. See what they say about your shops price.

Make certain to give your shop a complete how-to on the repair from the service manual that can be found on this forum. Otherwise, your not-so-critical leak could turn into a huge problem. It wouldn't be the first time, nor the last. I have, more times than not, had seals repaired on several different vehicles by others only leak worse and cause MULTIPLE return repairs for the same leaks to get resolved.

If it were me, AND I planned on keeping the vehicle untill it no longer moves (which I do) I'd take the day off, drive the distance and have the ex-dealer/Suzuki service center do it if you feel they are remotely competent. ,Avoids the entire finger pointing issue down the road.

If you are seriously contemplating getting rid of the car, do nothing since the leak is not bad. You run the risk of a worse leak and/or further problems or issues as a result of a botched repair.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
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Ronzuki
Posts: 2383
Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

couple things....

I'd say you have nothing to lose by the actions you've taken thus far. See what they say about your shops price.

Make certain to give your shop a complete how-to on the repair from the service manual that can be found on this forum. Otherwise, your not-so-critical leak could turn into a huge problem. It wouldn't be the first time, nor the last. I have, more times than not, had seals repaired on several different vehicles by others only leak worse and cause MULTIPLE return repairs for the same leaks to get resolved.

If it were me, AND I planned on keeping the vehicle until it no longer moves (which I do) I'd take the day off, drive the distance and have the ex-dealer/Suzuki service center do it if you feel they are remotely competent. Avoids the entire robin round finger pointing issue you'd be stuck in the middle of down the road.

If you are seriously contemplating getting rid of the car, do nothing since the leak is not bad. You run the risk of a worse leak and/or further problems or issues as a result of a botched repair.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
bootymac
Posts: 1602
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:04 am

I'd either leave it or let the Suzuki authorized dealer handle it

I've wondered about Saabs too, but I think they were popular enough with enthusiasts to have a strong community and aftermarket support?
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Moto
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It would really depend on the dealer. I would rather let a local mechanic work on my car than the old Suzuki dealer any day.

I own a saab 92x aero. Even that thing was a PITA to get any support on. GM was responsible for that car as they owned saab when the 92x was built. I think you are basically on your own if you own a saab.
kizzy1
Posts: 29
Joined: Sun Aug 24, 2014 12:53 pm

I got the estimate yesterday from the shop. It shows a leaking Drive Flange Seal...part no. 09283-35037. I submitted it to Suzuki and they said the seal (and the associated labor to replace it) is NOT covered by the drivetrain warranty. I was stunned. I asked them why a seal that is part of the TRANSFER CASE wouldn't be covered and was simply told that they called the "warranty center" (whatever the hell that is...) and gave them the part no. and it isn't covered. No arguments...no recourse...nada.

The part is $17 and the labor is $376. That's replacing with a genuine Suzuki seal. I know I'm not the first one to have a warranty claim denied but this just pisses me off. Mostly because there's probably a good chance that future "warranty" claims will be denied as well (what's their incentive to please customers here?...).

I will obviously have to have this fixed but am NOT inclined to us the "genuine Suzuki" seal...seeing as it failed and I'm going to have to pay for it. Like a lot of other cases, OEM isn't always the best quality.

It looks like this is the end of this little saga. I got a really crappy feeling dealing with them because it's obvious that they're just going through the motions...even the dealers that are still servicing the cars (and their numbers are dwindling) don't really want to anymore...can't blame them.

I'm having my doubts about keeping this car for the long run.
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Woodie
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Location: Laurel, MD

kizzy1 wrote:I will obviously have to have this fixed but am NOT inclined to us the "genuine Suzuki" seal...seeing as it failed and I'm going to have to pay for it. Like a lot of other cases, OEM isn't always the best quality.
I disagree with this 100%

Maybe you should try another dealer, could have been them, not Suzuki. Or try calling Suzuki yourself to see if someone can explain why that bit isn't covered. If you keep driving it until the transfer case is dry and melts down, will that be covered?
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bootymac
Posts: 1602
Joined: Fri Jul 19, 2013 1:04 am

The seal should be a warranty item. Here's what's covered in the power train warranty:
The Power Train warranty coverage applies to the following specific components.

ENGINE
Engine cylinder block and head(s) and all internal parts, intake manifold, timing gears, chains, tensioners and timing
cover, flywheel/drive plate, valve covers, oil pan, oil pump, engine mounts, water pump, fuel pump, seals and
gaskets.

TRANSAXLE, TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE
Transaxle, transmission, transfer case and all internal parts, torque converter, transmission/transfer case mounts,
transmission control module, seals and gaskets.

FRONT WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM
Front drive housing and all internal parts, axle shafts, drive/propeller shaft, universal joints, CV joints (provided CV
boots are intact), hubs, bearings and seals.

REAR WHEEL DRIVE SYSTEM
Rear drive housing and all internal parts, axle shafts, drive/propeller shaft, universal joints, CV joints (provided CV
boots are intact), hubs, bearings and seals.
Also, the power train warranty is supposed to be good for 7 years or 100,000 miles

http://www.suzukiauto.com/warranty.aspx
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KuroNekko
Posts: 5264
Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

I agree that the seal is definitely part of the powertrain as a component and should be covered. It sounds like the dealer simply does not want to do the work because they think Suzuki will fight them on it or something.
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WIKizashi
Posts: 93
Joined: Mon Feb 04, 2013 5:44 pm

KuroNekko wrote:I agree that the seal is definitely part of the powertrain as a component and should be covered. It sounds like the dealer simply does not want to do the work because they think Suzuki will fight them on it or something.
It sounds like kizzi1 went with the local option first, rather than taking it to the former Suzuki dealership 200 miles away. I'd still call that dealer and give them the part # and ask if it will be covered. Might as well exhaust all options before giving up.
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