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Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
NOTE: Any car related technical question can be posted here.
 #49617  by WackyJacky
 Fri Jul 05, 2019 4:49 pm
Hiya all. This issue may have been posted earlier so my apologies if it was. I've got a 2011 se awd. The car starts but only idles. It engages into gear but the fly by wire throttle does nothing. Car is basically in safe mode. I removed the throttle body and cleaned. Still no improvement. Even before I restarted the car after the cleaning and after the battery was fully disconnected for hours, I got the same error messages on the dash. I don't mind replacing the throttle body since the sensor is riveted to it. Any recommendations on what to buy? A used replacement or a new one? I wasn't able to find any blown fuses neither. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 #49619  by Ronzuki
 Fri Jul 05, 2019 7:50 pm
Hello, and welcome.
Exactly what error message(s) were displayed on the dash?
 #49622  by bdleonard
 Sat Jul 06, 2019 12:18 am
I would double check the connectors to the throttle body, and you can try the throttle re-calibration described in the service manual (The ECM is the main engine computer that sits near the headlight assembly next to the air filter box under the hood):

a)Disconnect negative (–) cable at battery.

b)Disconnect ECM connectors for 30 seconds or more to clear calibration data of closed throttle position from ECM.

c)Connect ECM connectors and connect negative (–) cable at battery.

d)Push engine switch to change ignition mode to “ON” without depressing brake pedal (CVT model) or clutch pedal (M/T model) and leave ignition mode in “ON” for 5 sec. or more.
 #49639  by WackyJacky
 Mon Jul 08, 2019 7:50 pm
ESP system service
Hill hold disabled
Check engine
Low tire pressure
Those are the messages I believe that are displayed. I had a local mechanic scan and he got the p2111 code that indicated stuck throttle valve.
Last edited by WackyJacky on Tue Jul 09, 2019 4:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
 #49641  by Ronzuki
 Mon Jul 08, 2019 11:42 pm
How's your battery health? How old is it?
Funny things start happening when the battery in these cars start getting weak. Even though they are still able to crank and start the car.
Lots of messages there that don't really have any obvious common denominator except the electrical power.
 #49642  by WackyJacky
 Tue Jul 09, 2019 4:33 am
Batterys good. So is the charging system.
The only fuse blown was an ESP module fuse 10amp in pos #9 under dash. An ECM disconnect/ reset was not successful.
The car starts and idles but is not driveable. It surges occasionally between 1500-2000rpm, but I can engage it into gear and move it at idle no problem. Just no pedal.
So I'm thinking I should just replace the throttlebody since the actuator motor and sensor are riveted to it?
 #49651  by Ronzuki
 Wed Jul 10, 2019 12:52 am
ahh...another morsel of info...ESP module fuse blown. That's a pretty significant, and relevant, event. Now the HUD alerts are making more sense.

Electronic stability control (ESC), also referred to as electronic stability program (ESP) or dynamic stability control (DSC), is a computerized technology that improves a vehicle's stability by detecting and reducing loss of traction (skidding).

Well, the car is 'stable' as hell now at idle that's for sure. More techno gremlin BS. Great when it's all working, not so great when there's another yard ornament sitting around. Anyway, the schematic should be checked to see what all is on that fuse's circuit. May only be the ESP module, probably not. I assume the replacement fuse held and did not blow again?
If I had a bunch of spare parts lying around, I'd swap that module out just for the hell of it, praying it didn't have to be 'paired' to the rest of the car's modules.

Any idea as to what was going on when the fuse had blown (probably the instant the HUD reported its alerts)?
Had you ever done, or were you doing, any electrical work/mods to the car.
Were you driving when all of this occurred or was it more like you went out to start the car and found it wouldn't move as normal?
Did this problem simply appear one day, or was there some other odd behavior, or signs, leading up to the current situation?
Just for yucks, have you tried disabling the traction stability control w/ the button on the dash and then giving it a go?
 #49656  by WackyJacky
 Wed Jul 10, 2019 5:17 pm
OK Ron Suzuki. My apologies for not including more of a history for this issue. I bought this car for my son's Mom so I don't usually ever drive the car. We did have a similar issue with this month's ago but I found a thread on here that led me in the correct direction. Had to deal with hill hold etc and the car would go into safe accelator mode(no pedal but run) after you depresed the pedal past a certain point. Accessory fuse 8 fixed that problem and I told her not to use the DC charger anymore. I realized there maybe a short somewhere that caused this. But the car seemed to return to normal. There are no more suzuki dealers in our area to have gone to verify this with.
Jump to the current incident. She says she was starting the car and when she prepared to leave, the hillhold light and check engine appeared. The car ran but no response from gas pedal... When they did get the car to a repair station, the mechanic said the code p2111 came up which is a generic code for throttle valve stuck. He recommended cleaning the body or replacing...says it happens all the time.
So when I got the car after this, I checked all the fuses and saw only the esp module 10amp blown under the dash. All the other larger esp circuits in the engine bay are good. The blown fuse was replaced and is still good.
I did clean the throttle body valve as it was caked in buildup.
I m having her try disabling the stability control.
The car has no mods on it under the hood. The battery is relatively new.
I'm holding off buying anything for this car until I know definitely it will solve the problem.
After resetting the ECM and disconnecting the battery for more than an hour..... The car gives me ALL the same error messages before I even crank the engine over? Was the computer really reset? Or is it cycling thru all the systems and finding faults before the engine is running? Such as an incorrect throttle valve position or an error in the stability suspension, hillhold etc.
Thanks for your help by the way.
 #49660  by bdleonard
 Wed Jul 10, 2019 6:41 pm
Assuming that you used a scan tool to reset the codes, had the battery disconnected for some time, and the code came back. It would seem to indicate that the TPS (or the stepper motor for the throttle) has indeed failed, unless you can find an issue with the connector or wiring. If you didn't have the codes cleared after your cleaning attempt, I would certainly do that before proceeding. Given the blown fuse and other issued you mentioned, I would also give the wiring harness a close look. Were/are there any aftermarket electronics installed in the car (stereo, remote start, immobilizer, etc)?

As I understand it if the TPS has failed you would need to replace the entire throttle body. This is definitely not a common failure, so I would say used is just fine. You would just need to use the "re-learn" procedure I described previously. It appears used Kizashi throttle bodies can be easily found on eBay for $50-60.