Cheap fix 19 Straightening a warped cylinder head

[old tech]

The J20B and J24b found in the Sx4, Kizashi, and Vitara are very good engines but if ever overheated, the cylinder head is very quick to become distorted or warped. The first telltale signs of this are overheating under acceleration and usually a hydrocarbon test on the cooling system would confirm that you have a gasket problem between the cylinder head and block. Another check that can be done on these is pull the valve cover off and lay a straight edge across the top of the cylinder head to confirm it . The straight edge should lay perfectly flat but if warped it will rock some.
On this particular one I’m working with currently, customer complained of overheating anytime he went above normal driving and the hydrocarbons were so strong in the coolant reserve that you didn’t need to test it. He also stated that he had a water pump that had letgo a month earlier. Pulling the head off in the car is actually very easy for a timing chain engine. The front cover must be removed which requires removing two studs used for the idler pulleys . The lower one however will not come out of the cover until it’s pulled and you must put it back in the hole while reinstalling.
After removing the cylinder head I laid a straight edge across the surface and measured it to be .007in of warpage. This wouldn’t be too bad to just shave although you’re asking the camshaft to flex with every rotation because it’s going to be warped just as much on the top side.
Straightening the cylinder head is actually the best repair. This may seem a little barbaric but it works fantastic I take two layers of the head gasket and just put them on the outside ends and then bolt the head back down to the block or an engine block sitting around like I had and tighten down to 85 foot pounds. next do you want to heat with a torch just above the head bolts to the outside of the head wall. Work from the center and work your way out I went around twice and then let it cool overnight.
I re-measured the head and it was perfectly flat. I then wanted to lightly surface the head on a big piece of glass with adhesive sandpaper stuck to it and just send away which revealed a low spot in cyl 4.
I just sanded some more till the whole surface was clean. Here is a picture of my sanding table. My wife didn’t like that coffee table anyway.
The car is back up and running perfectly again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BatNasko]

Hello! I'm new to the forum as I recently owned a Kizashi Sport July 2012, but I was unlucky and it turned out that the car was losing coolant and quite a lot - about 300-400ml per 100km. There were no visible leaks anywhere and the cylinder head had to be opened for that. The head gasket was replaced by a previous owner and was not blown. But unfortunately we checked and inflated the head and it turned out there was a crack inside it and coolant was coming out of one of the exhaust manifold holes, the others were dry, also coolant was getting into the oil. Still, until the end, the oil on the dipstick was not severely cut, but it was in the engine, all this for 700-800 km. During this time, the temperature gauge has never shown the Kizashi overheated since I've had it for about 10 days of riding and 700-800 km. Before I bought it I don't know what happened. I hope the block is not defective. There are no visible signs of external leaks, the piston cylinders are not scored and appear to be in fairly good condition. I am from Bulgaria and I have two options - a new chapter and an attempt to repair this one. I contacted here a technical university lecturer associate professor doctor engineer and his team who are great specialists and restore and build and revise such heads. They need to spot check it and drill the crack to see how far it goes. If it's not too deep they can rebuild it, weld it and even adjust the valves if needed. If the crack goes through the whole head I will have to buy a new one. The crack is in a bad place where the nut/thread for the cooling system goes and even if it is welded there is a chance that it will crack again when the bolts are tightened. Attaching photos:

[KuroNekko]

Great photos and knowledge base but definitely work for a pro or a very skilled amateur with access to pro tools.

[BatNasko]

Oh yeah, definitely. My last hope for a fix lies in these university professors.

[old tech]

I’ve seen the engine block crack on the 2010 s and I’ve heard of the cracked head like you have but were in the 2.4 Vitara before 2010. it would be interesting if there was a way to actually see the production date of the cylinder head but I don’t think that’s possible. In your country I would imagine that the Vitara 2.4 and the Kizashi 2.4 are pretty rare. I wonder if you have the 2.0 Sx4. I’m pretty sure that head would fit and could be a performance gain even. I’ve been wanting to try that but I haven’t yet. Here in the states a good engine can be had for only three or $400 currently. I would be a bit afraid of repairing this cylinder head but as long as you’re aware of what could happen and what to look for. It could be the only way out.

[BatNasko]

Sx4 2.0's may exist, but most likely they are also rare. Really here Kizashi on the road we are 4 5 cars For a chapter of 2.0 I am not convinced that it will fit. Otherwise, they will check the crack and give an expert opinion if it is worth the repair, my other option is 12 days delivery of a new head for 1200 euros. Where to check the date of manufacture of the cylinder head. On the seat belts of the car, the label below says 07.2012

[old tech]

This is interesting how you have this crack. My gut tells me that it’s not going to be worth a fix , too risky. It looks like it’s gone to the bolt hole and into the core plug threads. This would explain how it’s getting coolant into the oil but not exactly how it’s getting into the exhaust port. Your engine is called a J 24B and the J 20 B is found in the Sx4 from 2010 to 2014 I believe, it could go on to different years in different countries though. I know this head will bolt up but I have not done it. The chamber could be slightly smaller and at the most require a little machining to be able to use on the J24b block. Another option is using the whole J 20 B engine. This will bolt right in the only difference for you would be the throttle body size which you could use your throttle body and intake anyway. I am a little concerned about your lower end with The antifreeze that has been introduced into it. This can be very hard on the bearings long-term. Could you stick a straight edge across the top of your cylinder head and see if it rocks at all ? If it does this could be why you have the crack in the first place if the head had been warped and the surface against the block had been shaved. Another option is I could send you a good J 24b cylinder head . The cost would be $200 plus shipping and I have no idea what shipping would cost.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[BatNasko]

Tomorrow I will try this putting the cylinder head on the block and see if it wobbles. I really have no idea when the problem started with the car. I hope the bearings in the block are not damaged though. The cylinders on the block have no scoring and appear to be in very good condition. I want to make the engine in original condition and I am not using a J20 head, I want to keep the power of the engine and for that as a last resort I will order a brand new original J24B head. The delivery from you will probably be around 150-200 dollars, but I have no idea what the fee will be here at customs and, accordingly, 20% VAT. The head will check it to see if it makes sense to fix it, they will dig out the crack and see how far it goes. I will keep you posted on this issue.

[BatNasko]

I put the head on the block and there is this wobble that I can see quite a bit. I think I put the head on correctly and it fits just right. I'm worried about the Block being warped because it would be a lot of work to take the block off to sand it. It seems to me that the head is a grind and I don't know if there will be an opportunity for more grind without stopping the pistons. This under conditions, if the current head goes for repair. I don't know how accurate I am doing this measurement with this spirit level, but I will definitely try with the right tool.







Изпратено от моят M2101K6G с помощта на Tapatalk

[old tech]

You need a proper straight edge. I have these blocks show warpage from overheating. You can use the corrected cylinder head with adhesive backed 220 grit sand paper stuck to it to perfectly surface the block in the car. I plug the holes with cushion foam first.