Cooling system issues

Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
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KL31
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2024 9:21 am

Hi, long time reader first time registering and posting!

I have been maintaining and now driving my wife's kizashi for the last 6 years here in Australia.

Last year I had a weird issue (after a small pin hole in one of the cooling hoses). Cut the hose back a little where it frayed and topped up with coolant.

Since then I noticed the hose was collapsed after shutting the engine off and checking in the morning. Ended up deciding it was the radiator cap. Changed it and a month later the problem reoccured with the overflow tank also letting coolant out from its upper vent. Then I checked the cap and it had fell apart. Purchased a different cap and worked without issue for almost a year.

Now it's happened again with overflow tank and upper hose contracting.

I have just changed the thermostat and the old one looks fine. Seems like it hasn't solved anything.

I might need to buy an OEM radiator cap. But can it be the water pump? How would I test that? I ran the car for 10 minutes today and the heater didn't feel hot. But it was just idling. Lower radiator hose still feels cold. I squeezed it and it did sound like it was pushing water up the radiator. But still unsure a out the water pump.

Not sure what to try?

Thanks I advance for any answers. BTW it has 250,000kms on it. Never actually ever ran out of coolant or ever over heated. I'm pretty good at always checking on that stuff .
old tech
Posts: 791
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

I would recommend first checking for hydrocarbons in the cooling system. You could probably do this just by sniffing the coolant reserve bottle and if there’s a sharp smell to it that almost hurts your nose then you probably have a head gasket not sealing well. Does this car happen to be at 2010? This model year has extra troubles with the possibility of blocks cracking and warping. Anyway, next I would do is make sure to get all the air out of the system . There is a bleeder fitting where the intake manifold bolts up (cap with a hose clamp) that you can use . Most don’t know it’s there. Did the jiggle valve on the new thermostat head straight up? I do not think that there’s any possibility of a pump causing your problem. As for the top radiator hose sucking shut your problem has to be either cap or coolant reserve passage clogging.


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KL31
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2024 9:21 am

Thanks Old tech,

Yes it is a 2010. No smell of petrol in the coolant. Oil and coolant both respectively have always and still look perfect.

I'll check that bleeder valve! Yes thermostat bleeder hole was facing upwards.
KL31
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2024 9:21 am

Is the bleeder fitting near the intake manifold's fuel rail? I can see a hose clamped, blocked off fitting there. But no idea if that's the one you're taking about? Wish I could easily attach pictures here.
old tech
Posts: 791
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

thats it
KL31
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2024 9:21 am

Update to this post.

Was running fine for several months and now it's doing the overflow thing again. Yes it's a 2010.

Second weird thing is the AC seems to stop working at times unless I manually put the cvt into a higher rpms using the paddles. I have changed the accessory belt when I did the alternator a while back.

Don't notice any oil in coolant or vice versa or any bad smells from either.

I'll try that bleeder valve thing as when it was leaking coolant today the level was all the way up to the max level. But cold it's at the minimum.

Trying to baby this thing till it hits 300,000kms.
old tech
Posts: 791
Joined: Mon Apr 23, 2018 1:51 pm
Location: n/w pennsysvania

Im sure the reoccurring overheating is stemming from one or two of the following. Head bolts that have fatigued and could use a retorqued . (chain tensioner must be locked and cams removed). And or Cylinder head and bock surfaces need trued. ( Complete head removal but that can be done in the car)
KL31
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2024 9:21 am

I'm thinking you're right. Today it began to creep above the halfway mark on the heat gauge (first time ever) and the car was early into the trip (maybe 5 mins). Then I went to pull over and it went back to normal. Was babying it the whole time with heater on and keeping rpms and load low.

Checked the engine bay and it had vomited coolant from the overflow relief hole. I then went to drive it home after dropping the kids off to school but it stayed solid on the temp gauge. Coolant level still normal and close to the high mark.

Got all the way to work (pulled over multiple times to quickly check engine bay). Didn't spew any more coolant or go above normal operating temp.

Very weird, I'll be monitoring it like a hawk and babying the car. We are looking for a new car soon so this might be the end of the line for the poor thing. Annoying considering it's been kept well over the years and serviced on time always. Under the valve cover is silver like new. Sad that a stupid design flaw with the head gasket issue could spell an early demis for it.
KL31
Posts: 6
Joined: Sat Feb 24, 2024 9:21 am

Had a look again this afternoon in good sunny weather. Bubbling seen in the overflow tank while the car was running. Must be a head/gasket issue. No oil in coolant or coolant in oil yet.

Don't know how long I can limp it for but challenge accepted!
kelseyshields
Posts: 2
Joined: Wed Nov 20, 2024 7:08 am

KL31 -

Did you figure out whether or not it was, in fact, a head gasket issue? I am having a very similar issue. Your situation is where it began for me, and now, I have another untraceable leak. It seems to be originating from under the throttle body somewhere, but I can’t seem to trace it down. After finding so many coolant leaks on my Kizashi, you’d think I’d be a pro by now… but no luck!

I drive a 2010 as well, with 250,000 miles. I’m trying to keep her alive!
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