Kizashi Overheat

[nezzer]

I have a 2012 Kizashi that just had the water pump and timing belt replaced after the water pump failed in the mountains of Colorado. I was able to pull over quickly when I saw the engine temperature spike. The water pumped fail so spectacularly, the impellor punched a hole through the side of the water pump housing. After having Import Sport Performance in Denver replace the parts, the car will now overheat after about 2 blocks of driving. It will idle great all day but as soon as any load it put on the engine it overheats. I have read some threads about the cylinder head and hoping this is not the case. I think there is a strong possibility that metal fragments (shrapnel) was sucked through the cooling system and may be preventing full flow of the coolant. Has anyone performed a reverse flush on the cooling system? Thank you for any reply's to this thread and any suggestion you might have.
-Michael

[KuroNekko]

I'm sure Old Tech can offer great professional advice when he comments, but I want to start with the basics:
Are you sure the radiator cap is on properly and is sealing well? Have you replaced it with a proper type?
Have you also checked the oil and made sure it's not contaminated with coolant indicating a head gasket failure?

Also, the Kizashi has a timing chain, not a timing belt, so replacement is questionable unless your vehicle was in very high mileage like 200,000+ miles.

[old tech]

I don’t think shrapnel is any problem for you in the cooling system. Any particles that would come from the pump explosion would basically sink into the bottom of the block water jacket area I’ve never had enough material, clogging up the radiator cores unless if somebody’s put some stop leak into the system or other Coolant substitutes. I’m pretty sure what you have is a little bit of head warpage. This damage happens pretty quick in the Suzuki engine.This is not that bad of a job. If you were to take the coolant reserve cap off and smell the reserve, if it kind of stings your nose, you’ve got hydrocarbons. You could have a proper test done at a competent garage, but my experience has been a Kizashi is easy to damage once it goes into the red. The job can be done in the car, but there are two studs on the front of the engine that need to be removed so the cover has clearance to come off. I like straightening the head and then sanding it flat this ensures that no more material comes off the head than need be. I always check the top of the block but the 2012 hasn’t been a problem like the 2010 has been. If there is any engine block warpage usually it can just be sanded in place to correct. We charge this job out at 10 hrs so the final bill with parts , oil, coolant will run 1k with 2 or maybe 3 days down time. All needed parts are on hand here but not the case in most other areas. If you are past the 100k miles, you may want to take into consideration the possibility of the cvt wanting some attention after seeing its partner getting a makeover . A working transmission upgrade to long pin on the primary with new fluid and cooler filter is normally 1k . This is a nice preemptive fix.


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