Changing Kizashi's Oil can be a Messy Job

[NJKizashi]

As I always do..I changed my own Oil in my Kizashi SLS at 2733 miles with Royal Purple 5w30 Synthetic...Still a simple job, as with most oil changes..after all you can train a Chimp to change your oil ..but anyway.

First off, you have to remove one of the plastic panels from under the car, and in the area of the oil pan/drain plug area. (six 10mm screws)

Remove the plug (17mm..I Think )

Now the Messy part, the oil filter....

it's just the awkward horozontal position which it's in, (picture a Motorcycle Engine)
you have to remove the aluminum Heat shield from in front of the Headers (10mm), then reach in with a Clamp style Filter remover (Best Type),,,best thing to do before you loosen the filter is to get back under the car and put some shop towles, and or absorbent oil rags to soak up most of the seeping oil as you loosen the filter, otherwise, it'll ooze throughout thr frame nooks, and on other parts of the engine.

I also put a VERY Strong Neodynium Magnet on the end of the Filter about a 1/4 inch thick, and round about the size of a 50 cent coin http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ This magnet will attract any micro metal particals that the Filter doesn't pick up, I'll be taking the filter apart soon to see if indeed any of the engine break in metal paticals were collected.

I'll post pic's of the Filter's Insides once I disect it open

[NJKizashi]

As I always do..I changed my own Oil in my Kizashi SLS at 2733 miles with Royal Purple 5w30 Synthetic...Still a simple job, as with most oil changes..after all you can train a Chimp to change your oil ..but anyway.

First off, you have to remove one of the plastic panels from under the car, and in the area of the oil pan/drain plug area. (six 10mm screws)

Remove the plug (17mm..I Think )

Now the Messy part, the oil filter....

it's just the awkward horozontal position which it's in, (picture a Motorcycle Engine)
you have to remove the aluminum Heat shield from in front of the Headers (10mm), then reach in with a Clamp style Filter remover (Best Type),,,best thing to do before you loosen the filter is to get back under the car and put some shop towles, and or absorbent oil rags to soak up most of the seeping oil as you loosen the filter, otherwise, it'll ooze throughout thr frame nooks, and on other parts of the engine.

I also put a VERY Strong Neodynium Magnet on the end of the Filter about a 1/4 inch thick, and round about the size of a 50 cent coin http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ This magnet will attract any micro metal particals that the Filter doesn't pick up, I'll be taking the filter apart soon to see if indeed any of the engine break in metal paticals were collected.

I'll post pic's of the Filter's Insides once I disect it open

After cutting open my Filter with my Dremel tool, the Magnet actualy collected very small..smaller than grains of sand particals of metal, that otherwise could have ended up on your cylinder walls & rings.

[vwoom]

Have you tried an oil boy/fluid extractor pump to remove the oil via the dip stick tube?...It's an easier/less messier method than going down under the car and removing the belly pan, screws, unloosen drain plug (not to mention that occasional risk of stripping the bolt head), etc.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/3 ... SS500_.jpg

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/graphics ... PL6000.jpg

Granted, the removal of the filter and oil drippings are still there (the engine degreaser/cleaner is always a standby)...but my oil change time now had cut to more than half and less hassles from the previous old/under the car with ramps thing.

Btw, a vote goes out to those oil filter neodymium magnets as well...did the same and cracked open the 1st changed oil filter when my ride was new...same results, works like a charm.

[NJKizashi]

Have you tried an oil boy/fluid extractor pump to remove the oil via the dip stick tube?...It's an easier/less messier method than going down under the car and removing the belly pan, screws, unloosen drain plug (not to mention that occasional risk of stripping the bolt head), etc.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/3 ... SS500_.jpg

http://bpi.ebasicpower.com/mm5/graphics ... PL6000.jpg

Granted, the removal of the filter and oil drippings are still there (the engine degreaser/cleaner is always a standby)...but my oil change time now had cut to more than half and less hassles from the previous old/under the car with ramps thing.

Btw, a vote goes out to those oil filter neodymium magnets as well...did the same and cracked open the 1st changed oil filter when my ride was new...same results, works like a charm.

I have seen those extractors, but I just think that not all the oil truly get out of the Pan ??
The usual way is messy for sure, but there's just something about getting under that car, and watching all that Shitty Hot oil fully draining out.

[TOM JONES]

As I always do..I changed my own Oil in my Kizashi SLS at 2733 miles with Royal Purple 5w30 Synthetic...Still a simple job, as with most oil changes..after all you can train a Chimp to change your oil ..but anyway.

First off, you have to remove one of the plastic panels from under the car, and in the area of the oil pan/drain plug area. (six 10mm screws)

Remove the plug (17mm..I Think )

Now the Messy part, the oil filter....

it's just the awkward horozontal position which it's in, (picture a Motorcycle Engine)
you have to remove the aluminum Heat shield from in front of the Headers (10mm), then reach in with a Clamp style Filter remover (Best Type),,,best thing to do before you loosen the filter is to get back under the car and put some shop towles, and or absorbent oil rags to soak up most of the seeping oil as you loosen the filter, otherwise, it'll ooze throughout thr frame nooks, and on other parts of the engine.

I also put a VERY Strong Neodynium Magnet on the end of the Filter about a 1/4 inch thick, and round about the size of a 50 cent coin http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ This magnet will attract any micro metal particals that the Filter doesn't pick up, I'll be taking the filter apart soon to see if indeed any of the engine break in metal paticals were collected.

I'll post pic's of the Filter's Insides once I disect it open

I just got my Kizachi a few weeks ago and really never checked the underneath of the car yet but I know it's supposed to be covered with aluminum I believe..This heat sheild you're talking about is that the aluminum cover I see when I'm looking at the engine..Is that what I have to remove to install a new filter??BTW..You're wasting your money changing oil so much I'll change mine as soon as I get 5000 miles then every 10000 after that using super tech synthetic which cost half as much as what you use and is better..Super tech synthetic is made by two companys for walmart, Quaker State and Pennzoil and Pennsylvania oil is the highest quality oil in the world bar none..

[TOM JONES]

As I always do..I changed my own Oil in my Kizashi SLS at 2733 miles with Royal Purple 5w30 Synthetic...Still a simple job, as with most oil changes..after all you can train a Chimp to change your oil ..but anyway.

First off, you have to remove one of the plastic panels from under the car, and in the area of the oil pan/drain plug area. (six 10mm screws)

Remove the plug (17mm..I Think )

Now the Messy part, the oil filter....

it's just the awkward horozontal position which it's in, (picture a Motorcycle Engine)
you have to remove the aluminum Heat shield from in front of the Headers (10mm), then reach in with a Clamp style Filter remover (Best Type),,,best thing to do before you loosen the filter is to get back under the car and put some shop towles, and or absorbent oil rags to soak up most of the seeping oil as you loosen the filter, otherwise, it'll ooze throughout thr frame nooks, and on other parts of the engine.

I also put a VERY Strong Neodynium Magnet on the end of the Filter about a 1/4 inch thick, and round about the size of a 50 cent coin http://www.kjmagnetics.com/ This magnet will attract any micro metal particals that the Filter doesn't pick up, I'll be taking the filter apart soon to see if indeed any of the engine break in metal paticals were collected.

I'll post pic's of the Filter's Insides once I disect it open

After cutting open my Filter with my Dremel tool, the Magnet actualy collected very small..smaller than grains of sand particals of metal, that otherwise could have ended up on your cylinder walls & rings.

I assume your putting the magnet on the end of the oil plug. That's a great idea I had a Saab that had a magnetic oil plug and there were little metal particles on it every time I changed the oil..I'll check into that..

Edit:
Oh you put it on the end of the filter I missed that..I was thinking about putting a magnet on the end of the oil plug but now I might do both oil plug and filter..That's if the oil plug is steel..

[james1017]

Wow , before I purchased my Kizashi SLS, I change the oil to my 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage LS, and it's much easier. I think I'll just let Suzuki change my Kizashi's oil until it's paid off! Thanks for the information though!

[vwoom]

I have seen those extractors, but I just think that not all the oil truly get out of the Pan ??

The oil boy/extractors are used at level ground, so oil being vacuumed out is pretty much sucked out...versus the front end of the car on ramps (car/oil sump is tilted) if that is how you change the oil (that was my old, old technique as well).

[gaww]

I think the magnet things is misleading. It attracts the particles that have been caught by the filter. They would be staying put in the filter in any case. The magnet only draws them to the end where it is attached.