Kizashi Club

Your Kizashi Owners Club and Forum 

Anything related to the Kizashi can go here, but please look at the other headings first. Your topic may fit better under something else.
 #50956  by Superjet701
 Mon Jan 13, 2020 9:20 pm
I need to replace the passenger rear wheel bearing and don't know what I need to buy. I called several shops to see if they had anything in stock. They all said they'd have to factory order, but the prices range so much I'm not sure they're quoting the same part. The first was $86 + shipping, and online I see prices range from $41 to $108. The second and third places I called quoted a "Wheel bearing assembly" at well over $300. Could somebody who has replaced the bearings tell me what I need to buy? It is a 2010 front wheel drive.
 #50958  by old tech
 Tue Jan 14, 2020 4:36 am
I havent had to change one yet but its a wheel hub asm you need (bolt in) and its specific to the fwd. The awd is more common and cheaper. The one you need is part no. 512457 and add the word kizashi on the search and a singular one for $54 with a 10yr warranty will come up , get that one,
 #50961  by Superjet701
 Tue Jan 14, 2020 4:37 pm
Old Tech, I can't find the part you're referring to. Could you post a link?

One of the shops told me I needed part 512487, which seems like the description is right, but wow it's expensive for just 1 piece. I'd like to do both sides in case the other side goes soon.

Here is a pair where the description seems right, but not sure if the quality of TRQ is up to par with MOOG. I've never heard of TRQ. ... gIyqvD_BwE
 #50966  by old tech
 Wed Jan 15, 2020 3:54 am
Im not so good with using the computer . I forgot to mention search on ebay . type in 512457 kizashi and a singular one with a 10 year warranty will come up. The wheel bearing failure certainly isnt very common, I would just change the failed one. Its probably more chance that the failed one had a defect or took a good bump in the past. How many miles are on your Kizashi ? This job shouldnt be very difficult unless you live in a snow,high use of salt area.
 #50975  by Superjet701
 Wed Jan 15, 2020 6:13 pm
The car is at 108K miles. I live in Wisconsin, so there will be some difficulty getting it off. I ordered the two pack for a little over $100, I'll just replace the bad one and have a spare in case these replacements are junk, I'll be able to replace it again. They'll be arriving Friday, so I'll work on it and take some pictures to post here after it's done.

On a separate note - how many miles can I expect to get out of this car before the CVT fails? Just trying to plan ahead and predict when I'll need to replace this car.
 #50976  by LPSISRL
 Wed Jan 15, 2020 7:27 pm
There's really no telling. If you drive it hard and have done no maintenance, any day now.
There's really no telling if you've been replacing the fluid and filters at 40K-50K intervals.
 #50981  by old tech
 Wed Jan 15, 2020 8:13 pm
The average from what I see is 130k miles . With that said , Ive seen them fail as early as 81k and as late as 210k verified. When they fail, it usually ends with a broken primary and other casualties making it an expensive repair. You could check the rear of the trans pan floor for silver or chrome chips and that would be your trans cry for help. If say you pulled your trans now while it is still working fine, The balls and piston seal could be changed for about $150 here but I dont know anyone your way that would do the freshen up without doing an overhaul. Some time in the near future I hope to post this procedure but it does require some skill and care . Hope this helps.
 #51103  by Superjet701
 Tue Jan 28, 2020 10:28 pm
Well, good news, I didn't need to replace the bearing. Turns out the rear brakes were just shot. The rear pads were completely gone and it was metal - metal contact, my fiance claims they were just looked at/approved by a mechanic. Anyway, here are some pictures. A couple things to note, which were news to me.

The rear brake caliper pistons need to be turned clockwise to retract.

Car5.jpg (66.15 KiB) Viewed 2742 times

You need a low profile torque bar combined with a shallow, thinwall socket to remove the front caliper

Car3.png (469.86 KiB) Viewed 2742 times

After removing the front caliper, I see the rubber seal is torn and the caliper needs to be replaced/brakes bled.

Car4.jpg (65 KiB) Viewed 2742 times

Before and After:

Car2.jpg (67 KiB) Viewed 2742 times

Car6.jpg (76.18 KiB) Viewed 2742 times
 #51107  by old tech
 Wed Jan 29, 2020 5:19 am
A couple things. On the rear calipers, the clock position of the caliper piston slots must be parallel with mounting bolt holes so inside pad alignment nub falls into the slot. Living in an area prone for rust , its important to remove the stainless hardware off the caliper bracket and file the rust build up off and reinstall so your pads have a little clearance also make sure your caliper slides are free. On the front caliper, the torn piston boot is becoming more common and its available inexpensively . See post cheap fix. When you posted you needed a fwd rear wheel, I thought it was odd to need one because i hadnt seen one. Your noise should have been maybe a light metal to metal and then way heavier when nailing the brakes. If it would have been your wheel brg, it would not change noise by applying the brkes