~tc~ wrote:On most cars, the e-brake adjusts the pad clearance on the rear brakes. Using it a lot can result in them being adjusted a bit too tight and premature wear on the rear brakes.
I see that now that I have the brakes apart. Now the problem is that I can't get the piston pushed in far enough to get clearance for the new pads. Any ideas? I'm using a large C clamp and it will only go so far!
Does the rear brake caliper piston have a groove or shapes in it? Many brake pistons require tools that fit into it and then you turn the piston into the caliper to make clearance for the new pads. You can borrow this brake service kit from places like Autozone or you can buy one yourself like I did at Harbor Freight Tools.
Take a photo of the rear brake caliper piston and upload it here if you don't mind.
I have yet to do the brakes on the Kizashi.
~tc~ wrote:On most cars, the e-brake adjusts the pad clearance on the rear brakes. Using it a lot can result in them being adjusted a bit too tight and premature wear on the rear brakes.
I see that now that I have the brakes apart. Now the problem is that I can't get the piston pushed in far enough to get clearance for the new pads. Any ideas? I'm using a large C clamp and it will only go so far!
Does the rear brake caliper piston have a groove or shapes in it? Many brake pistons require tools that fit into it and then you turn the piston into the caliper to make clearance for the new pads. You can borrow this brake service kit from places like Autozone or you can buy one yourself like I did at Harbor Freight Tools.
Take a photo of the rear brake caliper piston and upload it here if you don't mind.
I have yet to do the brakes on the Kizashi.
Thanks KuroNeko. You're exactly right (like always Anyway I saw this too late. Already got everything back together. It does indeed have a + groove in the piston. The service manual says to use a special tool but I of course didn't have it but the length of a slim screw driver fit in to one part of the + and it turned quite easily. I've done brake jobs on probably 6 other cars before and I have never run across the groove in the piston or the ebrake set up we have. All the others have had plain pistons and the type of ebrakes that are basically shoes and the inside of the rotor functions as the drum. Anyway thanks for the help and suggestions to all.
One other thing. The center console just pops up with the same clips as the HVAC unit and stereo.
KuroNekko wrote:Did you remove the center console to access the hand brake lever adjusting screw?
I did. The write up in the service manual was very helpful but I find it hard to search those types of pdf files. For example I wanted to find the proper torque for the lug nuts and I'm sure it's in the manual but I couldn't find it. I went with 100 ft.lbs. based on a post I saw on this site.
PittsburghJoe wrote:I did. The write up in the service manual was very helpful but I find it hard to search those types of pdf files. For example I wanted to find the proper torque for the lug nuts and I'm sure it's in the manual but I couldn't find it. I went with 100 ft.lbs. based on a post I saw on this site.
I believe it is 105.
I was kind of surprised since it's 5-lug at 105 vs my other cars at 80 with 4-lug.
bootymac wrote:Kuro nailed it. Brake bias and different pad compound pretty much covers it. It happens on other vehicles too
Rears first almost seems to be a zuk thing. My 1986 Samurai never had it's front disc brakes replaced in the 110,000 miles I owned it. Did one set of rear shoes (drum) at some point and replaced w/ OE Suzuki.