My Dealer-less TPMS Tire Change Story
I am no longer afraid of the orange eyed monster! It was flashing "TPMS system needs Servicing" when my sensor came off inside the tire. I replaced the sensor and tried reprogramming the TPMS system by the letting air out of the tires. It worked! The first time I tried. Thanks SamirD!
64 Galaxie 68 Olds 442 65 Impala 70 VW Bug
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna
Glad you had a simple solution to that problem.redmed wrote:I am no longer afraid of the orange eyed monster! It was flashing "TPMS system needs Servicing" when my sensor came off inside the tire. I replaced the sensor and tried reprogramming the TPMS system by the letting air out of the tires. It worked! The first time I tried. Thanks SamirD!


It's amazing how quick the air method of triggering the sensors works. It's faster than my vt30 or the $1000 vt55.

I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. While I have just as low of an opinion about tire monkeys as everyone else I still believe this is due to corrosion. It's electrolysis between the different and poor choice of metals used in the stem assembly or/and all the salt and snow from the last few years. A little internet research and corroded valve stems seems to be common. All 3 stems that have failed were original factory stems, IIRC, and were not touched by said tire monkeys. Given that rubber stems work just as well with a lot less chance of breakage I see no reason not to make the switch.redmed wrote:I agree with SamirD the average tire monkey tightens the valve stem too tight for these aluminum stems. It happened to me. I brought the tire home and installed it on my car. The next morning the tire was flat without driving on it at all. I discovered that the stem was cracked right at the valve. Autozone sells a new stem for a couple bucks and a gasket kit ( includes a gasket, valve, stem nut and stem cap)for another 2 bucks.bodhibro wrote:Another valve stem has snapped off at the threads taking the needle core with it. I know where this is going, and it's not good. It's just a matter of time before the 4th one does it.
Amazon says this is compatible with the Kizashi, but I'm hesitant. Doe anyone know of any plastic/rubber valve stems like this that will work?
edit: a Schrader rep said that the 28308 model is compatible with the 2011 Kizashi. I'm going to give these a try and hopefully that will be the end of this nonsense.
I'm not disagreeing with you just relaying an experience. I have aluminum rims so have not experienced corrosion due to dissimilar metals. I also don't drive the Kiz if salt is on the roads. So I have only experienced problems due to tire monkeys. I have to include myself in the tire monkey category because when I broke the tire bead I did it too close to the sensor causing it to break the stem holder on the sensor. Hence more problems leading me to finally replacing the sensor.bodhibro wrote:I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. While I have just as low of an opinion about tire monkeys as everyone else I still believe this is due to corrosion. It's electrolysis between the different and poor choice of metals used in the stem assembly or/and all the salt and snow from the last few years. A little internet research and corroded valve stems seems to be common. All 3 stems that have failed were original factory stems, IIRC, and were not touched by said tire monkeys. Given that rubber stems work just as well with a lot less chance of breakage I see no reason not to make the switch.redmed wrote:I agree with SamirD the average tire monkey tightens the valve stem too tight for these aluminum stems. It happened to me. I brought the tire home and installed it on my car. The next morning the tire was flat without driving on it at all. I discovered that the stem was cracked right at the valve. Autozone sells a new stem for a couple bucks and a gasket kit ( includes a gasket, valve, stem nut and stem cap)for another 2 bucks.bodhibro wrote:Another valve stem has snapped off at the threads taking the needle core with it. I know where this is going, and it's not good. It's just a matter of time before the 4th one does it.
Amazon says this is compatible with the Kizashi, but I'm hesitant. Doe anyone know of any plastic/rubber valve stems like this that will work?
edit: a Schrader rep said that the 28308 model is compatible with the 2011 Kizashi. I'm going to give these a try and hopefully that will be the end of this nonsense.
I can see where dissimilar metal corrosion would play havoc on these weak walled aluminum stems and will use sensors with rubber stems in the future if they work for you. Let us know if those rubber stems work out.
64 Galaxie 68 Olds 442 65 Impala 70 VW Bug
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna
There's no way this is due to corrosion unless someone changed the caps to metal. At any point in time if those tires came off the wheel, there's a chance someone overtorqued them. There's no other reason for them to fail consistently like that.bodhibro wrote:I guess we'll have to agree to disagree. While I have just as low of an opinion about tire monkeys as everyone else I still believe this is due to corrosion. It's electrolysis between the different and poor choice of metals used in the stem assembly or/and all the salt and snow from the last few years. A little internet research and corroded valve stems seems to be common. All 3 stems that have failed were original factory stems, IIRC, and were not touched by said tire monkeys. Given that rubber stems work just as well with a lot less chance of breakage I see no reason not to make the switch.redmed wrote:I agree with SamirD the average tire monkey tightens the valve stem too tight for these aluminum stems. It happened to me. I brought the tire home and installed it on my car. The next morning the tire was flat without driving on it at all. I discovered that the stem was cracked right at the valve. Autozone sells a new stem for a couple bucks and a gasket kit ( includes a gasket, valve, stem nut and stem cap)for another 2 bucks.bodhibro wrote:Another valve stem has snapped off at the threads taking the needle core with it. I know where this is going, and it's not good. It's just a matter of time before the 4th one does it.
Amazon says this is compatible with the Kizashi, but I'm hesitant. Doe anyone know of any plastic/rubber valve stems like this that will work?
edit: a Schrader rep said that the 28308 model is compatible with the 2011 Kizashi. I'm going to give these a try and hopefully that will be the end of this nonsense.
Rubber valve stems can provide their own set of problems. They are more prone to leaking and deteriorate faster. Metal stems were designed to be 'lifetime' parts while rubber stems were always 'throw away' replacement parts. Considering there's a sensor attached to the rubber stem that I assume gets thrown away too (haven't seen any rubber service parts), this will be a more expensive option in the long run. An extra $80 in sensors with each set of new tires can really add up if you plan to keep the car a while.
Before TPMS, rubber coated metal valve stems were the norm on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks such as my suburban. Metal to handle the much greater tire pressures (80psi) and rubber coated to provide the seal to the rim. Lasted forever. The 20 year old original stems are still on there after nearly 190,000 miles. The monkeys replaced them at the first tire change with the standard automotive all-rubber ones. I went back in and said wtf? They said they didn't have new metal stems like the OE so I made them put the OE ones back in. Why must these damn things be so over-engineered? A rebuild kit for a valve stem...really? If/When mine fail, the rubber ones are going in.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded


1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (

The Schrader 28308 sensor
looks to have a rubber coated brass valve stem. If so, I would expect it to be more durable than the aluminum stems.
I have 4 extra OE steel rims that I got as part of the purchase deal from the dealer. I may use these in the future to mount a set of snow tires. I would be inclined to use the Schrader 28308 sensors expecting the rubber to protect against salt and dissimilar metal corrosion. The rubber coated brass should be stronger than the weak aluminum stem allowing tire monkeys to tighten the valve tighter. If someone has used the Schrader 28308 sensors on their Kizashi I would like to know.
looks to have a rubber coated brass valve stem. If so, I would expect it to be more durable than the aluminum stems.
I have 4 extra OE steel rims that I got as part of the purchase deal from the dealer. I may use these in the future to mount a set of snow tires. I would be inclined to use the Schrader 28308 sensors expecting the rubber to protect against salt and dissimilar metal corrosion. The rubber coated brass should be stronger than the weak aluminum stem allowing tire monkeys to tighten the valve tighter. If someone has used the Schrader 28308 sensors on their Kizashi I would like to know.
64 Galaxie 68 Olds 442 65 Impala 70 VW Bug
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna
red I guess you missed my post on the previous page haha.
I just had a Schrader 28308 sensor installed this past weekend. After they installed it I did the air release trick with learning mode and my Kizashi read it like a normal sensor. I highly recommend it if you're looking for rubber coated stems.
I just had a Schrader 28308 sensor installed this past weekend. After they installed it I did the air release trick with learning mode and my Kizashi read it like a normal sensor. I highly recommend it if you're looking for rubber coated stems.
Over torqued what though? The nut at the base of the stem? The valve needle core? The plastic cap itself?SamirD wrote:There's no way this is due to corrosion unless someone changed the caps to metal. At any point in time if those tires came off the wheel, there's a chance someone overtorqued them. There's no other reason for them to fail consistently like that.
The valve needle core. I watched a mechanic work on my tire and when he reinstalled the valve needle core he tightened it like always. Neither he or myself thought anything was wrong. I took the tire/wheel home and installed it on the car. The next morning the tire was flat. I re inflated the tire and searched for the leak. Found a hairline crack on the aluminum stem just below the valve needle core. When reinstalling the valve needle core on these aluminum stems you have to be careful otherwise the aluminum stem will crack like mine did.bodhibro wrote:red I guess you missed my post on the previous page haha.
I just had a Schrader 28308 sensor installed this past weekend. After they installed it I did the air release trick with learning mode and my Kizashi read it like a normal sensor. I highly recommend it if you're looking for rubber coated stems.
Over torqued what though? The nut at the base of the stem? The valve needle core? The plastic cap itself?SamirD wrote:There's no way this is due to corrosion unless someone changed the caps to metal. At any point in time if those tires came off the wheel, there's a chance someone overtorqued them. There's no other reason for them to fail consistently like that.
64 Galaxie 68 Olds 442 65 Impala 70 VW Bug
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna
bodhibro, thanks! Yes I missed that the Schrader 28308 sensors worked on your Kizashi. I'm going to make a note to use them next time I need a sensor.
64 Galaxie 68 Olds 442 65 Impala 70 VW Bug
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna
74 Nissan B210 66 Chevelle 73 Olds 98 71 C20
75 Monza 82 Escort 75 E150 75 Civic 76 Accord
86 Escort 87 Taurus 83 Chevy G20 85 Ranger 4x4
93 F250 4x4 95 Silhouette 95 LHS 03 Corolla 10 Kizashi S MT
17 Sienna