Kizashi Club

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The Do It Yourself section is used provide assistance with mods and fixes. Whenever you are making a change to your car please take pictures and notes. Let others know what to watch out for and any useful tricks you learn. If you are starting a post in this section from scratch please hold it to a higher standard than you would for other forum posts. i.e. technical detail and even grammar.
Please post about issues or problems in the Technical Support & Problem Troubleshooting forum.
 #47697  by Ronzuki
 Sat Sep 08, 2018 9:40 pm
Last Saturday I took a drive out to my ex-zuk dealer to stock up on supplies for the Kizashi and SX4 from the parts manager I've dealt w/ there forever. Grabbed his last 3 oil filters, air filters for the K & SX4 and 6 quarts of Suzuki OE Green CVT fluid to add to the one quart I had to do a couple drain and fills on the Kiz which I just finished up.

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While I was there and we were trying to see if we could find the heat exchanger return filter housing cover o-ring, filter, and filter gasket, I acquired this:

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Anyone need a p/n looked up, just let me know.

On to the CVT fluid change... I could drain and fill that thing a dozen times and the fluid coming out will never look anywhere near what the virgin fluid looks like. Too little too late. My gut always told me it shoulda been changed back at 30k. Last years TSB confirms that and then some.

Let it sit in the garage over-night and checked level before I drained. Guess what? Factory fill was at full hot mark on the stick. Ambient was @70degF in the garage when I started.

Put the car up on my ramps and then leveled out the rear end:

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The first drain was dark, dark, brown. Couldn't see through it as it was draining.

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4 quarts and then some came out (1 gallon washer fluid bottle):

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Put 3 quarts back in with this nifty funnel hose gadget I picked up at Advanced Auto:

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Put it back on the ground and took it for a spin after the P-R-N-D-N-R-P ritual a few times. Put back up on ramps, leveled it out again and checked the stick. It was at low COLD. Drained it again. This time the stuff coming out had a bit of transparency to it while flowing out. Still nasty looking though:

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About 3 quarts or so came out. Due to the location of the drain hole in the CVT's pan, I jacked the drivers side rear up further and several more ounces drained out:

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Put 3.5 quarts back in:

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Checked the stick and it was at the low HOT mark. Re-installed the under cover, put the car back on the ground again, ran it through the gear shift ritual, took another spin around the block, changed the filthy air filter and called it a day. When the weather gets hot again next week I'll give it a nice easy ride to work. Check the level when I get there (hot trans) and add fluid if needed to just below full HOT mark per the TSB. If that goes well I'll give it a nice hard romp on the way home through a set of twisties while it's good and hot out...then see how the whine is after that.


Fast forward a few weeks...Since the whine had calmed down noticeably and the CVT's behavior improved notably, I order in 14 more quarts of Suzuki OE fluid to do the third drain/fill and to change both filters.

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So after about 1,000 miles since the initial two drain and fills I decided I’d go ahead and do the filters replacement with the third and final drain/fill and acquired the items needed.

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Thanks to DiggerDerrick for O'Reilley's filter kits p/n's. Advanced Auto Parts near work had same p/n's (different branding), both in stock. Interesting though if I change my model year to 2012, Advanced Auto’s website states the parts don’t fit that MY, so those that DO NOT have a 2010 or a very early 2011, be advised. As I’ve stated in numerous other threads, Suzuki had two different pan filters and pan gaskets in stock for the Kizashi. The parts manual I have reflects this as well as information regarding CVT parts on other vendor sites. All Jatco JF011Es are not created equal. Label in pic below says 20 bolts...actually it's 18 w/ 2 locating pin holes. There's another JF011E pan gasket w/ 19 bolts and 2 locating pin holes

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Thanks also to bdleonard for the Mitsubishi O-Ring p/n research. Ordered the O-ring...took a day to get it at the local Mitsubishi dealer. As it turns out, the Mitsu p/n is 100% correct for the Jatco JF011E CVT in a MY 2010 Kizashi and I suspect it is the same in the wife’s 2011 SX4’s Jatco JF011E as well. The wife’s car has the same cooler return filter cover arrangement. I’ll confirm or deny that when I repeat all this on her car soon.

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So, on with it…drained the fluid again. Once again, the fluid was even more translucent draining out than the drain before, as expected. However still fairly nasty looking in the pan just not as bad.

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Decided to go ahead and get the unknown over with first: Swapping out the little cooler return cartridge filter. Pulled the air cleaner housing out to gain access to the filter cover. The cooler hoses are attached to the cover

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This filter change is not too bad really…easier and not as messy as anticipated. Keep your drain pan under the drain hole because as soon as you pull off the cooler hoses, or break the cover seal, quite a bit more fluid from within the trans drains into the pan. Place a few paper towels, or whatever, under the hoses/cover area to soak up what’s going to run out of the hoses and the cover when you loosen the bolts and break the seal. I keep card board under the car anytime I’m doing this sort of thing.

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3 of the 4 10mm bolts can be had with a gear wrench. The bottom rear with a 3/8 ratchet and short extension from below the trans mount above the cover.

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After removing the cover, I couldn’t get my nubby fingertips in far enough to grip that little cartridge tight enough to twist, wiggle and pull it out from under the trans mount. Just about that time, the wife comes wondering on out with her skinny little fingers. Voila! She had it out in a jiff. This is the filter that needs to be changed frequently every service IMHO just like and engine oil filter. This bugger was nasty.

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The O-ring on the cover appeared to be OK, but since I had the new Mitsubishi one, in it went. Coat it with a little CVT fluid before installing. Be certain to carefully seat the four little retaining tabs molded on to the ID of the o-ring into the machined surface of the cover (without damaging either the cover or the O-Ring). It’s a loose fit seal design. Otherwise, it’ll just pop out while you’re putting the cover back on and you may not see it’s out and could be damaged during tightening of the cover causing a leak or the system to suck air.

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Install the cover, put the 4-bolts back in and snug them up finger tight. Then go around an ease them all tighter in a repeated pattern with the wrenches gradually drawing the machined surface of the cover down on the machined surface of the trans case. Since there’s little to no room, torqueing to spec with the trans in the car isn’t happening easily. Torqued mine to my ‘calibrated feel’ of about as tight as I believed them to be when I broke them free for removal. Slid the cooler hoses back on and reset the hose clamps in their exact original positions.

On to the pan filter and gasket…(pictures are fewer from hence forth, this was starting to take too long) I started by cracking all the pan bolts free first. Unthreaded all the front edge bolts about halfway. Then went to the back of the pan and started removing bolts working my way forward. This allows all the remaining fluid in the pan, which is quite a lot even with the drain plug out, to run to the back of the trans pan and into my catch pan as I move forward removing bolts. Left the front bolts in so they supported the pan while it drained. Picture shows the flow of fluid out of the back edge of the trans pan.

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As it turns out, the drain bolt’s threaded bung sticks up pretty high inside the pan preventing the pan from emptying completely and retaining quite a lot of fluid. Kind of a stupid design for draining. Jacking the drivers rear corner higher when just draining aids in getting more of the fluid to drain.

Cleaned the greasy metallic goo off the magnets and the inside of the pan. Degreaser and a rinse with some brake clean took care of it nicely. The metal pan filter was free of debris (metal bits) and could have been degreased (that dark gray coating) and reused again in my case. I also rinsed the new filter off w/ brake clean as it had a coating of oil and stuff on it from its manufacturing process. Don't want any of that contaminating the new fluid.

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The OE filters mesh screen was of a better quality then the aftermarket filter I replaced it with. No pics sorry. Generally there’s always some bits of manufacturing stuck metal in them. Quite happy mine was free and clear as best as I could tell. The metallic goo surrounding the magnets wasn’t even that terrible. I’ve seen far worse.

Cleaned trans pan inside view:

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New aftermarket filter's suction inlet side:

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New filter's outlet side...connects to valve body:

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The pan filter kit came w/ a thicker rubber gasket. Never had much luck w/ those types of gaskets. They always get brittle and leak far too soon. After dropping the pan and seeing the OE gasket was thin and very rigid, and was in good shape, I elected to clean it off and reuse it. Far superior quality. If it leaks or weeps, I'll order an OE gasket from the zuk dealer. Another drain/fill won't hurt since this drain was still on the nasty side.

Put a few of the bolts through the pan and held them in place with some automotive painter’s tape. These bolts then act as locating pins to keep the gasket in the correct location while laying on my back, on the floor, off to the side of the trans, in cramped quarters. I’ve used this technique several times in the past with those damn flimsy gaskets and it’s always worked like a charm…like having another pair of hands under there.

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Installed the OE rigid pan gasket over the bolts onto the pan. Put the pan up in to place and pushed up on it to begin seating it using the taped in bolts to locate the pan. Pushed up enough on it to allow me to start threading in the remaining bolts in the free holes. As I was doing this, the taped bolts would start to push the tape away from the pan. Once all the bolts were in the free holes, started removing all the taped-in so they could then be installed. Works perfectly every time. Once all the bolts were in and snugged finger tight, I started from the center of the pan progressively snugging them further with tools alternating side-to-side and working towards the ends an corners of the pan. Repeated the tightening pattern a few times until it was all tightened up evenly. The absolute worst thing to do to any stamped sheet metal pan is to put any kind of strain on the pan’s sealing flange or denting, twisting creasing or warping it in any way. You’ll develop leaks guaranteed. Another reason I don’t like those thicker flimsy rubber gaskets is I feel they cause exactly this issue.

OK, put the drain plug back and repeat the fill. This time it took nearly a full 5 quarts to get it up to hot operating level per the TSB.
 #47707  by KuroNekko
 Sun Sep 09, 2018 11:08 pm
Nice photos, Ronzuki.
I think many are interested in keeping their CVTs quiet and long-lasting so this post is great. Let us know how the new fluid is once you've tested it in demanding conditions.
 #47711  by DiggerDerrik
 Mon Sep 10, 2018 12:13 am
Ronzuki wrote:While I was there and we were trying to see if we could find the heat exchanger return filter housing cover o-ring, filter, and filter gasket,


Did you find the o-ring for that housing? I too would like one, or two of them. Last time (and only time) I’ve replaced that cartridge filter I just reused the old one.
 #47713  by Ronzuki
 Mon Sep 10, 2018 12:36 am
KuroNekko wrote:Nice photos, Ronzuki.
I think many are interested in keeping their CVTs quiet and long-lasting so this post is great. Let us know how the new fluid is once you've tested it in demanding conditions.


Will do. I was encouraged by WESHOOT's report after his last fluid change on his latest Kiz by his dealer (even though specific details were lacking :twisted: ) so I just got over my fear of causing more harm than good. If I'd have had another 3 quarts I probably would've done it a third time because of just how nasty the 2nd drain was. As it is, if I hear/feel an improvement, I'll probably do another 6-7 quart drain/fill service soon. Still want to locate that cooler filter housing cover O-Ring and filter gasket. No way I'm cracking that open to change the return filter (which I feel is really crucial) w/o a new O-Ring to seal it back up. 8 year old rubber in a high heat device (especially the way I ran it in the heat this past summer) is going to be shot. The only one I've been able to find is part of a $300 rebuild kit. Nothing comes up at all on Suzuki's parts computer at the dealer regarding the cooler return filter.

Need to get a bunch more fluid as the wife's 2011 SX4's CVT has a little over 50k on it. She, however, doesn't drive like a maniac as I do and the Jatco is over-sized for the SX4. Doesn't work nearly as hard in her car.

BTW, Kuro, if you want to move or add any of this to a DIY thread/topic/whatever so it's more useable to others, be my guest.
 #47715  by bdleonard
 Mon Sep 10, 2018 2:04 am
Ronzuki wrote:
KuroNekko wrote:Nice photos, Ronzuki.
I think many are interested in keeping their CVTs quiet and long-lasting so this post is great. Let us know how the new fluid is once you've tested it in demanding conditions.


Will do. I was encouraged by WESHOOT's report after his last fluid change on his latest Kiz by his dealer (even though specific details were lacking :twisted: ) so I just got over my fear of causing more harm than good. If I'd have had another 3 quarts I probably would've done it a third time because of just how nasty the 2nd drain was. As it is, if I hear/feel an improvement, I'll probably do another 6-7 quart drain/fill service soon. Still want to locate that cooler filter housing cover O-Ring and filter gasket. No way I'm cracking that open to change the return filter (which I feel is really crucial) w/o a new O-Ring to seal it back up. 8 year old rubber in a high heat device (especially the way I ran it in the heat this past summer) is going to be shot. The only one I've been able to find is part of a $300 rebuild kit. Nothing comes up at all on Suzuki's parts computer at the dealer regarding the cooler return filter.

Need to get a bunch more fluid as the wife's 2011 SX4's CVT has a little over 50k on it. She, however, doesn't drive like a maniac as I do and the Jatco is over-sized for the SX4. Doesn't work nearly as hard in her car.

BTW, Kuro, if you want to move or add any of this to a DIY thread/topic/whatever so it's more useable to others, be my guest.


I believe you can get both the secondary CVT filter and O-ring from Mitsubishi, I'll see if I can find their part numbers again. Looks like Mitsubishi Filter part number is 2824A006, and the O-ring 2920A096. Taken from the diagrams for the Lancer that used the same CVT as ours (items 28352 and 28075P).
 #47718  by KuroNekko
 Mon Sep 10, 2018 6:38 am
Ronzuki wrote:
BTW, Kuro, if you want to move or add any of this to a DIY thread/topic/whatever so it's more useable to others, be my guest.


Good idea. I'll copy it into the Stickies.
 #47723  by KuroNekko
 Mon Sep 10, 2018 7:42 am
While I don't see a specific filter for the CVT in the diagram (maybe I missed it?), this is the most detailed CVT diagram and overall parts site I've come across for the Kizashi. It's from megazip.net which sources parts for Japanese cars straight from Japan. It's great because it may get you specific parts inside component systems that most OE parts sites don't. While I don't have personal experience with this site, other members do and claim it's a reliable source for Kizashi-specific parts.

https://www.megazip.net/zapchasti-dlya-avtomobilej/suzuki/kizashi-1875/a6b424-18215/a6b424-my-10-325108/cvt-transmission-assy-3790244
 #47725  by Ronzuki
 Tue Sep 11, 2018 1:13 am
bdleonard wrote:I believe you can get both the secondary CVT filter and O-ring from Mitsubishi, I'll see if I can find their part numbers again. Looks like Mitsubishi Filter part number is 2824A006, and the O-ring 2920A096. Taken from the diagrams for the Lancer that used the same CVT as ours (items 28352 and 28075P).


Excellent info! Did you actually obtain and successfully install those Mitsu filter and O-ring parts in your Kizashi's CVT?
 #47728  by SamirD
 Tue Sep 11, 2018 4:02 am
Excellent thread for those of us that plan to keep our Kizashi for forever as possible. Keep us posted on your progress. The worry on flushing old 'automatic' transmissions is always something getting free and then stuck somewhere else. But if we flush it early enough, it becomes a non-issue.
 #47735  by bdleonard
 Tue Sep 11, 2018 3:17 pm
Ronzuki wrote:
bdleonard wrote:I believe you can get both the secondary CVT filter and O-ring from Mitsubishi, I'll see if I can find their part numbers again. Looks like Mitsubishi Filter part number is 2824A006, and the O-ring 2920A096. Taken from the diagrams for the Lancer that used the same CVT as ours (items 28352 and 28075P).


Excellent info! Did you actually obtain and successfully install those Mitsu filter and O-ring parts in your Kizashi's CVT?


I have not, but the filter cross references to the Jeep / Dodge / Mitsubishi / Nissan / Suzuki vehicles that use our CVT. Some dodge and Nissan owners have actually used the Mitsubishi supplied o-ring, and Dodge and Nissan don't appear to offer it as a discrete part either. Example, from a person with a 2010 Altima 2.5 which uses the same CVT: https://www.nissanclub.com/forums/2007- ... -mesh.html