Kizashi Club

Your Kizashi Owners Club and Forum 

Where DIYs with photos live. Please start new topics in DIY section. Completed DIYs are moved here for clutter control and quicker reference.
 #46162  by delusional29
 Fri Jan 12, 2018 1:53 am
Thanks for the great info. I ended up going with these for the replacement fog lamps:
SOCAL-LED H11 H8 Fanless LED Conversion Kit 60W: https://goo.gl/G3H4Ef

As for the DRLs and High beams. Those bulb (top bulbs) are working just fine, so I'm leaving them alone. The ones below (position bulbs) I may swap out. For those, I ordered these: T10 LED Bulbs 1.5W Super Bright 6000K: https://goo.gl/NVpLcb

Thanks again for the tips!

DeL
 #46328  by KuroNekko
 Sat Jan 27, 2018 11:34 pm
delusional29 wrote:Ok. So I'm stuck. Everything is mounted but I can't figure out where this plugs into from the HD harness and relays? Anyone?

Image

DeL


As the tag states, that's for the OEM Input meaning the headlight control. It needs an adapter that plugs into one of the car's headlight harnesses that the H7 bulb would otherwise connect to. Because the Morimoto kit uses an HD Relay harness to power the kit, you don't need to connect the ballasts to each of the car's headlight harnesses for power. However, you still need to connect to at least one of the harnesses to control the kit's function (to turn on and off the headlights). There should be only one of those OEM Input harnesses and there should be a separate adapter that connects to it that fits into a female H7 harness inside the headlight. Going back through my many installation photos from my kit, I found a picture of the adapter I'm talking about. You need to plug the labeled adapter (pictured below) into the harness you photographed and then connect the small red and black blades into one of the headlight's female H7 harnesses.

input harness.jpg
input harness.jpg (598.92 KiB) Viewed 2557 times

input harness connected.JPG
input harness connected.JPG (3.23 MiB) Viewed 2557 times
 #46329  by delusional29
 Sun Jan 28, 2018 12:55 am
Thanks. I ended up figuring it out but your new photos confirm that I did it right. I actually looked up how to install on YouTube and they all said to connect to only one headlight out put so that the relay can get the signal to activate.
Turned out, I removed the adapter in BOTH grommets. Snip, snip! I misunderstood your instructions that you didn't need that part. Turns out it was only the right side you didn't need.
Luckily when I snipped it I saved the parts so I crimped it back together. (I have the proper tools and connectors so it was easy).

Here's my new quick disconnects I used to fix it:
Image

Installed:
Image

Crimped wire on the outside:
Image

Also, to make things interesting my harness was slightly different than yours. It's actually improved a bit with only one Universal ground which you connect directly to the battery. The ballasts also had different mounting brackets. But I made it work. (In this pic it's hooked up wrong.)

Image

Last but not least, you only need one relay to fix the flickering issue. I bought two by mistake. LOL. You can see it hooked up incorrectly in that pic above of my updated harness.

Here's a final pic I snapped quickly after install.
Image

Looks great! Now I'm heading out to align my headlights at my local indoor parking garage.

DeL
 #46330  by KuroNekko
 Sun Jan 28, 2018 1:29 am
First, congrats on getting it all installed and working.
I have come to realize that there are some points in my old write-up that are a bit confusing. I apologize, but I'm glad you got it resolved with the control input wire. Yes, you need to keep one, but don't need it for the other side. You're also correct about the need for only one capacitor in the kit to stabilize the voltage. I was told this by the folks I ordered it from. However, I was able to connect them to each ballast so I simply used one on each side and it's been working great. My LED DRLs have a capacitor on each side too.
Lastly, you're correct about how the kit is different than mine. Morimoto has since updated the kit so things aren't exactly the same. The ballasts are slightly different in design and the bulbs are offered in different color temps. Regardless, they are similar enough and parts are interchangeable.

If you haven't already, I suggest you remove the horizontal adjustment covers on the headlights so you can fully adjust the headlights.

Let me know how you're liking the new headlight system.
 #48866  by KuroNekko
 Thu Feb 14, 2019 8:29 am
I wanted to update this thread to state the following:
I have recently passed the 5 year anniversary of installing this kit. The 5 year mark is also the end of the warranty offered by TRS/Morimoto for this 35W kit. Personally, I found the kit quite remarkable given the very generous warranty span that most won't dare come close to and more importantly, the fact that I didn't need to use it. Yup, my Kizashi is still running the same bulbs and ballasts from the original install over 5 years ago. While I've had to install capacitors to stabilize the current to prevent slight flickering at idle (after installing electrical accessories like a dash cam, phone charger, etc.), the original kit has been reliable and offered superior lighting.

As I've stated many times on this forum, an HID kit upgrade is the cure for the halogen bulb headache common with this car. While I think LEDs may work just as well, they are more of a trial-and-error application compared to the generally more powerful and focused light output of HID bulbs in halogen-intended projector headlights.

When my HID kit components do eventually fail, I will install the LED kit I currently have in the high beam/DRLs into the low beam projectors just to test them out however, will likely resort to installing new Morimoto HID components for the low beams.

As for my LED kit for the high beam/DRLs, these too are performing flawlessly. I have since also installed capacitors to counter the flickering from the PWM of the DRL system intended for halogen bulbs. This makes the bulbs operate nearly at full power as DRLs but I don't really see that as a problem anymore, especially given all the brighter OE LED DRL systems found on newer cars. My Kizashi's LED DRLs seem to just blend right in among them on the road. As high beams in the dark, the light is more scattered than halogen bulbs, but the light output is significant and functions decently as high beams to illuminate a wider and further area.

Both the HIDs and LEDs have been significant upgrades over halogen bulbs with far greater longevity which is appreciated in this car given how cumbersome the bulb replacement process is.
  • 1
  • 7
  • 8
  • 9
  • 10
  • 11