Key fob battery type, dying symptoms, and swap instructions

[KizashiGem]

Hey guys,

Can anyone tell me if this is related to the car stopping while driving? My car has a habit of losing power while I'm driving. Has this happened to anyone? Thank you

[KuroNekko]

Hey guys,

Can anyone tell me if this is related to the car stopping while driving? My car has a habit of losing power while I'm driving. Has this happened to anyone? Thank you

I highly doubt it's related to the key fob. Does the car die out (engine shuts off) or does it just stall out (engine is running, but no power to the wheels)? How do you get it started/going again?

Typically when a car just dies and the engine cuts off, it's the alternator failing to provide the electricity to keep the car going. Another possible cause is a blockage in the fuel system.

If the engine runs fine, but the car stalls, I highly suspect it's the CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) if you have it. If you have an automatic Kizashi, then you have a CVT. Faulty CVTs are known to cause stalling issues.

Regardless, you should take it to the dealership because this is likely a powertrain-related issue and Suzuki covers the powertrain under warranty for 10 years/100,000 miles.

[LPSISRL]

The car stopping while driving is not going to be related to the fob. I think you can even start the car with no battery in the fob as it may use near-field technology? That's why you have to hold it right up to the start button if the battery is weak/dead.

[SamirD]

The car stopping while driving is not going to be related to the fob. I think you can even start the car with no battery in the fob as it may use near-field technology? That's why you have to hold it right up to the start button if the battery is weak/dead.

I always wondered how that would work. Thank you!

[KansasKid]

My wife was the first one to notice that her Key Fob was dying over the summer. So we switched keys because everytime she'd try to show me it wasn't working, it'd work.

Anyways, it took a couple weeks, but it finally started acting up for me as well. I noticed it starting when I had to mash really hard on the key fob button to get the car to unlock from the other side of the parking lot.

Over time, I started having more and more trouble un/locking the car from the button on the handle. I found out if you're having trouble getting the car to detect the keyfob when you push the button on the door handles, then push a button on the keyfob, and the car should detect the key, and allow you to un/lock the car with the button on the door.

On a side note, I'm going to go get a new set of batteries while Azumi's getting her oil changed today. Thanks for posting the battery guys. It helps a bunch!

[bootymac]

Just changed both of my remotes' batteries as they were starting to act up. The buttons wouldn't work until I got really close to the car. Then they stopped working altogether after a few weeks.

I found it strange how my spare remote died at the same time. I measured the voltage of the old batteries and both were 2.95V. The new batteries were 3.33V for comparison.

Also, I made the mistake of prying the slot in the center. Prying the slot under the tab was a lot easier

[SamirD]

Yep, battery finally dying on us too. I'm doing the 'captain morgan' stance in order to have the fob close enough to the car for the handle button to work sometimes.

I've already bought a spare battery and keep it on me in my spare cell phone battery case. The day it finally gives up the ghost, I'll just look up the instructions here or in the manual, swap the battery and be on my way.

[bootymac]

Save yourself the trouble and just replace it now

[SamirD]

Save yourself the trouble and just replace it now

I could, but it still works.

Besides, there are always certain areas where it never would work. I suspect there's a lot of broadcast frequencies in those areas that may be the cause though.

[redmed]

The batteries in my fob needed replacing this summer for my 2010 Kizashi.