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Where DIYs with photos live. Please start new topics in DIY section. Completed DIYs are moved here for clutter control and quicker reference.
 #12505  by MNSLS
 Sun Jul 29, 2012 8:42 pm
Sparkplug replacement are something that a new or seasoned DIY can handle on the 2.4L Kizashi.

First, go buy 4 new sparkplugs and some anti-seize compound. I used the NGK SILFR6A11. (These plugs come pre-gapped. NGK instructions are to not change the gap of these plugs. If you buy a different plug you may have to gap the plug. Gapping involves measuring and changing the distance between the electrodes. If you need to gap there are sources on the web to help aid you. )

Second, park you Kizashi and let the engine cool down. (You don't want to burn yourself). While the Kizzy's chillin' gather up your tools. You'll need a rag, a 10mm socket, a 5" long extension, and a 5/8ths inch sparkplug socket. It's a good idea to have a torque wrench. (Though I didn't use one.)

Next, open the hood and you'll see the engine cover. That cover lifts off. It sits on 4 studs. The last picture is the engine cover upside down.
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 #12506  by MNSLS
 Sun Jul 29, 2012 8:49 pm
Now that your engine cover is off you should be able to see the tops of the 4 coil packs. They are square with a white or grey connector on the them.

(You'll want to do the sparkplugs in order. This ensures you get all the stuff back on in the same place where it came off. I started on the left most plug.)

On top side of the coil pack is the electrical connector. Using the connector push the tab down and pull it gently out. (Warning: Do not use the wires you might accidently break a wire.)

Once the electrical connector is off use the 10mm socket to take the screw that holds the coil pack secure to the engine out. Once removed lift the coil pack up and out.
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 #12507  by MNSLS
 Sun Jul 29, 2012 8:52 pm
Now that the coil pack has been removed we can remove and change that sparkplug. Look into the bottom of the hole that held the coil pack. You'll see the sparkplug. Use the sparkplug socket and extension to get down to the plug. Turn it out like you'd turn out any bolt. (Lefty loosy)
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 #12509  by MNSLS
 Sun Jul 29, 2012 8:59 pm
Now with the old plug out grab your new plug. (Those of you who need to gap plugs should gap now if you haven't already.) Compare the old plug and new plug. You want to make sure they're the same size and type. Also, review the tip of the old plug to see how your engine is running. (If you find you have an oil caked plug you may have bad valves or seals. You might want to bring the plugs and car into a shop for analysis.)

Now that you have the new sparkplug put some anti-seize compound on the threads. Next look in the hole to make sure there isn't any old washers or gunk in there. If there is something in there you'll need to clear it out.

Place the new sparkplug in the sparkplug socket and lower it into place. Thread the plug in by hand as far as possible. This helps to prevent cross-threading. Grab your socket wrench and tighten till firm.

As this point if you have a torque wrench you'll want to set the torque to 25 Nm or 18 ft-lbs. Tighten the rest of the way with a torque wrench.

(I didn't have a torque wrench so I used the method of tightening 1/4 turn past tight.)
 #12510  by MNSLS
 Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:01 pm
With the new sparkplug in place you'll want to put the coil pack back together. Follow my 2nd post above (where you removed the coil pack) backwards.

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That was the first plug. Move to the 2nd plug and follow all the steps again. Continue through the 3rd and 4th plugs.
 #12511  by MNSLS
 Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:05 pm
Now that 4 new plugs are in. You can put the engine cover back onto the engine. It snaps onto the 4 studs.

You can see one of the studs in my pictures of removing the coil packs. It's just in front of the screw on the coil pack. There are 4 of these that the engine conver snaps onto. The other front one is to slightly to the right and to the front of the last coil pack. (Assuming you followed my left->right method).
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 #12512  by MNSLS
 Sun Jul 29, 2012 9:06 pm
With everything reassembled you'll want to take the car for a short drive. Turn off the radio and listen to the engine. The car should start and run smoothly. If it does not you'll have to recheck your work. Make sure all coil packs are in place and all electrical connectors connected firmly.

Happy motoring!
 #13074  by KuroNekko
 Mon Sep 03, 2012 1:28 am
Nice write up. I love the new era of coil-on-plugs, but I do miss spark plug wires and the colors you could get them in. Overall, coil-on-plugs makes it so much easier.
Also, the reason why you don't need to gap iridium plugs is because the center electrode is so thin, it's already efficient enough for a good spark right out of the box. The thinner electrode really narrows where the spark can arc to the side electrode.
Also, trying to gap with such a thin center electrode is risky as you can easily break it. Gapping is really more for copper spark plugs where the center electrode is much thicker and creates a less efficient spark arc.
I personally use NGK Iridium IXs. They are a budget-minded iridium plug made more for the enthusiast. They don't last as long as the high end iridiums, but offer good performance for around 45,000 to 50,000 miles and are about 7 to 8 bucks each. You don't have to gap them either. High end iridiums can cost close to 12 each or more.
Also, another reason why you always want to change your plugs when the engine is cold is so that you lower the chance of cross-threading the plugs. When the engine is hot, the aluminum threads in the engine are softer and can easily be misshaped.