How to install DRL/High Beam LED Conversion Kit

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krell
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Any update on the few problems with the led DRL
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KuroNekko
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krell wrote:Any update on the few problems with the led DRL
It still occurs sporadically, but it's only when the lights go from low beam to DRL mode or when the DRLs first come on. It's not like they suddenly flicker or fail while in use.
My high beams appear to work reliably.

When I have the time, I intend to remove the bumper and headlights and check the bulb and wires. I will also devise a way to mount the LED drivers inside the headlight to prevent them from moving around much at all. I just want to eliminate the possibility of the drivers' movement causing stress on the wires. I will also reconnect all the wires to make sure everything is connected properly.
I will see if these measures resolve the issue of the RH DRL sometimes not coming on properly.
If the problem persists, I may contact VLEDS for a replacement.

Regardless, it's only a minor issue and this kit serves as a huge improvement in DRL and high beam performance.

I will post an update once I get around to checking the wires and mounting the drivers.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
SamirD
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Great writeup! So I noticed the high beam is also an H7. So both our high beam and low beam are the same type of bulb? If so, what do you think of this kit as a replacement for the low-beam bulb?
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KuroNekko
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SamirD wrote:Great writeup! So I noticed the high beam is also an H7. So both our high beam and low beam are the same type of bulb? If so, what do you think of this kit as a replacement for the low-beam bulb?
Yes, the Kizashi uses separate H7 bulbs for both the low beam and high beam. However, the LED conversion kit would not be suitable for the low beams. The reason is because of the lens type. The lows use a projector lens and these are not suited for LED bulbs. They don't refract the LED light properly so the output is poor. However, LED bulbs do better in multi-reflector lenses which is what the DRL/High beam bulbs are in. This is why I went with the LED kit among other reasons discussed below.

The opposite is true with HID kits. They work well in projector lenses and not multi-reflector lenses. HID bulbs in multi-reflectors create a lot of glare and do not throw the beam optimally. However, they work better in projector lenses which not only throw the light well, but offer a light cut-off to minimize glare.

HID bulbs are also not suitable for varying wattage so they don't serve well as DRLs which run on lower wattage. They are also not good for intermittent use such as flashing or using in short bursts which is how high beams are commonly used, especially in urban environments. This is due to how HIDs work: they are gas discharge arcs reacting on crystallized salts which turn into plasma when ignited. This process requires "warm up" and turning them on and off repeatedly reduces the life of the salts if they don't get to recrystallize before being arced again.
In contrast, LEDs turn on at full power instantly and are totally fine flashing or even strobing. There are no warm up or cool down issues like HIDs have. LEDs also run better on lower wattage so they can serve as DRLs better than HID.
This makes them ideal as DRLs and high beams over HID.

Basically, use HIDs for lows and LEDs for DRL/high beams or just stick to halogen bulbs for both.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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KuroNekko
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krell wrote:Any update on the few problems with the led DRL
I haven't had time to redo my wiring and mount the drivers, but the "flickering" is still occurring occasionally. It's not all the time. However, today I noticed that my LH side bulb did the same (it was only the RH until now). This made me think that maybe the RH LED driver was not at fault but maybe the DRL system's lower wattage was causing the issue.

I checked on VLEDS' site and they appear to sell a relay that deals with the issue, but it's only for 9006 kit and does not appear to be compatible with the H7 kit. I contacted VLEDS to get the details.

I believe this is similar to HID flickering issues and this is why the Morimoto HID kits have harnesses that directly connect to the battery. This relay harness design was intended to minimize flickering issues by having a direct power connection to the battery. I believe the issue with my LED DRLs could be similar because the flickering only occurs when the car is idling in DRL mode and not while the car is running (alternator generating more power) or in high beam mode (more power flowing to bulbs).

Regardless, I intend to keep the kit and see what solutions VLEDS can offer. It might be that a new battery with a stronger, more reliable current can resolve the issue. I intended to get an Optima or another high end battery anyways when it came time to replace my stock battery.
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~tc~
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While I don't necessarily buy Kuro's "HID for projectors, LED for multi reflector", I agree that I wouldn't use these for the low beam, but just for cost/lumens. For the same price or cheaper, you can get HIDs that put out 50% more light and likely come with a relay harness to make sure you actually get the rated lumens. These LEDs are a great option for the DRL/high beam since HIDs won't work in the low voltage or flash modes these bulbs are required to do
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krell
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Found this on a car forum ....The flickering is caused by the very quick pulses the car sends to the headlights....I think. This is how the DRLs are only a percentage of the low beams. I am guessing because you have LEDs, they don't play nicely with the pulses. A few of us have upgraded headlight harnesses and a small capacitor in the harness fixed the pulsing that was making our relays buzz.
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krell
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DRL and HID issue Fix (Keep your DRL's) NO FLICKERING.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthr ... FLICKERING
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KuroNekko
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~tc~ wrote:While I don't necessarily buy Kuro's "HID for projectors, LED for multi reflector", I agree that I wouldn't use these for the low beam, but just for cost/lumens. For the same price or cheaper, you can get HIDs that put out 50% more light and likely come with a relay harness to make sure you actually get the rated lumens. These LEDs are a great option for the DRL/high beam since HIDs won't work in the low voltage or flash modes these bulbs are required to do
There is extensive literature on this if you research it. Even VLEDS themselves advised against their LED kits in projector lenses and recommended HIDs instead. Also, nearly all the warnings and cautions against aftermarket HID kits is related to HID bulbs in multi-reflectors. HID bulbs are far better suited in halogen projectors than halogen multi-reflectors.
The Kizashi uses projectors for low and multi-reflectors for DRL/High, hence I have HID for lows and LED for highs. The performance is excellent in this set up and far superior to any halogen bulb alternative in the headlights (been there, tried that).

HID and LED bulbs emit light differently so they have different reflection characteristics inside the headlight which affects throw and glare. This is why they have different performance in projectors vs. multi-reflectors.

Also, my Morimoto HID kit was around $170 while the VLEDS LED kit was $120. The cheap kits found on Ebay are trash compared to Morimoto components and also don't come with the relay harness. In this regard, getting a good HID kit with a relay harness will cost you more than the VLEDS LED kit.
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KuroNekko
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krell wrote:DRL and HID issue Fix (Keep your DRL's) NO FLICKERING.

http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/showthr ... FLICKERING
A relay may be the answer, but link is for a HID kit and I have LEDs. They have different voltage requirements as they operated very differently. I also have no issues when the car is running, only when idling which makes me believe some other factors like the battery may be at play. Regardless, I've contacted VLEDS to see what they say.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
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