HID wire routing

[kizsls]

I have a set of HIDs on the way and understand the procedure to remove the bumper to get at the lights, mount the ballasts etc. But there is one thing that doesn't make sense to me...

How do you run the wiring for the bulbs out to the ballasts and then back in without making a hole? I keep seeing people say there is no modification or access hole needed to be drilled for the wires. How is that so if everything is inside the headlight housing?

Common logic tells me that I would have to plug the factory bulb connector into the power input for the ballast, which would have to route outside the headlight housing to where the ballast is mounted and then back into the housing.

[Woodie]

The factory bulb connector IS outside the housing.

[murcod]

The factory bulb connector IS outside the housing.

The H7 bulb electrical connector base is sealed inside- surely that's what kizsls is talking about? There's a special OEM plug that is the only external electrical connection and contains all the wires for the headlight's bulbs (indicator, tail, low beam, high beam) in the one plug.

I haven't seen the kits, but I'd imagine the H7 bulb connector would plug into a loom that runs to the ballast and then the HV wires run to the new HID bulb? As mentioned you need to somehow run the H7 loom wires externally to the ballast and then the HV wire back in to the bulb. Sounds like drilling holes would be required? Or else pull the headlight apart and try to fit it all inside (and pray the ballast doesn't overheat and die!)

[KuroNekko]

I have a set of HIDs on the way and understand the procedure to remove the bumper to get at the lights, mount the ballasts etc. But there is one thing that doesn't make sense to me...

How do you run the wiring for the bulbs out to the ballasts and then back in without making a hole? I keep seeing people say there is no modification or access hole needed to be drilled for the wires. How is that so if everything is inside the headlight housing?

Common logic tells me that I would have to plug the factory bulb connector into the power input for the ballast, which would have to route outside the headlight housing to where the ballast is mounted and then back into the housing.

Yup, you got it right. I have a HID kit so I can tell you from firsthand experience. I did not install the kit (came with my pre-owned car), but I have personally installed a HID kit on my old car before.

Your ballast is unlikely to fit inside the headlight and I would strongly advise that you do NOT try to bake your headlight, break the seals, and open your headlights.
It's much better to mount your ballasts under the headlight via 3M double-sided tape or mounting brackets if the kit comes with them.

You will need to drill a hole unless you don't want the bulb cap on the headlight (not advised). I would advise to drill a hole in the cap to get the rubber grommet in which contains the 4 wires (2 to ballast and 2 from ballast).

Look at these photos of my headlight in the link below. (The tutorial is not for a HID install, but related to the headlight and shows my HID wires going into and out of the headlight.) You will see how it works for my kit which confirms what you thought you'd have to do.

I have also read on this forum that drilling is not necessary, but I don't understand that logic. Unless the entire kit is housed within the headlight, the wires need to run in and out. If you want the headlight to still be sealed (strongly advised) then you need to drill and have rubber grommets around the wires as seen with my kit.

http://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewto ... =28&t=2140

[kizsls]

Thanks, KuroNekko.

That explanation and your pictures confirm I wasn't missing something. I plan to do it the exact way you have yours.

And yeah, I'm not going to try to bake the housings to put everything inside. I've done it before with other headlights to clear them, and it worked out fine, but I don't feel like risking it on a car that isn't available in the U.S. anymore.

I'm willing to bet it would be an easy $500 per side to get a replacement. I took a gamble buying this car last week. Knowing full well the value will drop rapidly and parts are going to be scarce and expensive if I need them.

Aside from the gas mileage, and how it randomly does or doesn't work with my phone over bluetooth. I love the car. I was real close to buying a 2011 C300 4matic. All the same features for 6k less sold me on it. I hope she's good to me for the long haul...

[kizsls]

By the way,

I think I have the same issue you described about the driver side beam pointing to the passenger side. When I'm in the car and behind another car on the road, The reflection of the passenger side beam is a lot brighter than the driver side. Like when you replace a bulb but don't seat it properly and it points in a goofy position.

If I park and point the beams at a wall, there's a definite focal point of the passenger side beam. The driver side is almost like it's diffused. I was thinking maybe the bulb wasn't seated properly, but now it sounds like I'm facing what you fixed on yours. Did you see the same kind of light pattern I'm talking about before you adjusted it?

[KuroNekko]

By the way,

I think I have the same issue you described about the driver side beam pointing to the passenger side. When I'm in the car and behind another car on the road, The reflection of the passenger side beam is a lot brighter than the driver side. Like when you replace a bulb but don't seat it properly and it points in a goofy position.

If I park and point the beams at a wall, there's a definite focal point of the passenger side beam. The driver side is almost like it's diffused. I was thinking maybe the bulb wasn't seated properly, but now it sounds like I'm facing what you fixed on yours. Did you see the same kind of light pattern I'm talking about before you adjusted it?

It appears that many, if not all, Kizashi headlights were aimed this way. Multiple people have noticed that the driver's side headlight beam is angled towards the passenger side. It's probably to avoid blinding oncoming traffic, but it's annoying and not safe if you drive on unlit roads like in rural areas. When I noticed that Suzuki installed covers to block adjustment side to side, it made sense to me that it was deliberate and Suzuki did not want people to alter it. Well, it wasn't going to fly with me so I popped off the covers and did a write up on it. After adjusting the driver's side beam, the headlights work better like how they should. I really think beam height adjustment is far more important in preventing the blinding of oncoming traffic than side to side adjustments.

[Woodie]

The factory bulb connector IS outside the housing.

Oops, my bad. Haven't had mine apart, just assumed that they were like every other headlight made for the past 100 years. Should have kept my gob shut.

Could you just splice into the wires before that connector? Or is it too much voltage to feed through that connector?

[murcod]

The last couple of vehicles I've owned have had the custom plug entering the headlight and the generic H4/ H1/ H7 plugs hidden in the sealed internals.

The high voltage from the ballast would arc out -you need to keep the proper wiring that comes with the ballasts.