Cvt concerns!!
I noticed that the rpm fluctuate while idling (I can feel it as a change in the vibration of the engine), I took a video of it and took it to the dealer. When I came back, they told me that everything is working fine and according to the manual they have, the fluctuation is completely within manufacturers spec.
Post the video for us to see. I'm sure we're a better judge than the dealer. 
There you go:
It's 66MB though. The fluctuation can be seen starting @00:39s. This is with warm engine (I drove a few kilometers) and in P. No AC on. No stereo. When the rpms drop, there is a vibration I can feel and then it seems like the ECU notices it as well and raises the rpms again to compensate.
It's 66MB though. The fluctuation can be seen starting @00:39s. This is with warm engine (I drove a few kilometers) and in P. No AC on. No stereo. When the rpms drop, there is a vibration I can feel and then it seems like the ECU notices it as well and raises the rpms again to compensate.
Yep, perfectly normal as the clutch engages for the AC compressor.
Some cars raise the rpms while others start to shake and shutter because of the extra load on the engine.
Some cars raise the rpms while others start to shake and shutter because of the extra load on the engine.
Ah, I missed the extended description that included no AC. So then it's probably the radiator fan, which is electric.klement wrote:There you go:
It's 66MB though. The fluctuation can be seen starting @00:39s. This is with warm engine (I drove a few kilometers) and in P. No AC on. No stereo. When the rpms drop, there is a vibration I can feel and then it seems like the ECU notices it as well and raises the rpms again to compensate.
Best way to check this will be to be outside the car with the hood open and engine running. Look in the front of the engine and you should see the blades for the radiator. DO NOT PUT YOUR HAND NEAR THESE WHILE THE CAR IS RUNNING OR KEY IS IN THE IGNITION. They can turn on at any time.
Start the car and observe the rpms. It seems like it is either in the higher or lower range, so that makes it easy. Make a mental note of the rpms and walk to the engine and note if the radiator fan is running or not. More than likely, the higher rpm will be noted with the radiator fan running.
Continue to observe the radiator fan until it shuts off or turns on. When this happens, note the engine rpm. Now that you have two sets of data that correspond with the rpms, continue observing the radiator fan and see if it continues to follow the pattern. If so, you now know what it is.
Then it's something else that's causing a current draw. Is the fan running as it should? It could be drawing power when not running even though it should be.
Anything else connected that's not factory stock? Something has to be causing a load. How old is the battery?
Everything is stock besides LED DLRs(these were added by the dealer at my request and are of philips brand, so I don't think they mess up anything), which were not turned on (stock HIDs were on) at the time of video. Also, this happens regardless of lights being turned on or not. It happens if AC is on or off, it happens also if audio is on or off. So it really looks like the ECU can't decide on the rpms.
The battery is fine, it's two years old, but there was never a hiccup (yet) and even when I experienced the extended crank issue (happend 2 times to me), it had no trouble cranking for 10 secs.
The battery is fine, it's two years old, but there was never a hiccup (yet) and even when I experienced the extended crank issue (happend 2 times to me), it had no trouble cranking for 10 secs.