Rough idle

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murcod
Posts: 2279
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:03 pm
Location: Australia

~tc~ wrote:I'm sure hill hold uses the brakes, but it think it's definitely something in the torque converter/ transmission, as mine will idle rough and a little low, but popping it in to neutral will eliminate the load - it smooths out and the idle comes up a touch
Yes, that's why I asked about the creeping forward when you take your foot off the brake (after the hill hold does it's stuff.) The engine is probably straining against the torque converter at a standstill - much the same effect as you'd get with a manual trans by slipping the clutch against the idling engine with the brakes on.
David
Bizzenn
Posts: 168
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:33 pm

So basically it's a characteristic of the trans and torque converter. Unless they program a higher idle we will just have to deal with it. Oh well.
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Ronzuki
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Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

Bizzenn wrote:So basically it's a characteristic of the trans and torque converter. Unless they program a higher idle we will just have to deal with it. Oh well.
Maybe. But here again, what has changed in the car (torque converter, trans, fluid, ECU, sensors) to cause this rough idle? I'm certain that when test driving the cars before purchase, none of us would have purchased if the idle was rough at a stop w/ brakes applied. Is the CVT fluid breaking down and causing issues in the torque converter? Or, has the ECU 'adapted' over time and decided it was OK to lower the idle on its own (I doubt there's vibration monitoring inputs to the ECU)? How is the adaptive algorithm in the ECU written? Mysteries we'll never know.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
Bizzenn
Posts: 168
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:33 pm

Honestly, I bought it in the heat of summer so the ac was always on. What about resetting the ECM by disconnecting the battery briefly?
Bizzenn
Posts: 168
Joined: Thu Jun 27, 2013 12:33 pm

As far as cvt fluid, mine is good and the guys at Jatco said don't even think about changing until 60k.
smsmart
Posts: 121
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:52 am
Location: San Diego, CA

I experience the same thing...rougher idle when in "D" and pressing the brakes vs. being in "N". Although it's more pronounced when the engine is cold.
Bizzenn wrote:As far as cvt fluid, mine is good and the guys at Jatco said don't even think about changing until 60k.
That's interesting...when I was at the dealer for the 30k service, the dealer went ahead and changed the CVT fluid anyway :|
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Ronzuki
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Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

That's no surprise. At the cost of that fluid, they just made a bunch of money off you by performing a service that isn't required until 90k miles according to the maintenance schedule. Did they change the filter in the trans? That would be they only reason I could think of to replace the fluid that early. 60k is certainly a more reasonable number w/ respect to the 90k recommendation by Suzuki.
Last edited by Ronzuki on Wed Feb 26, 2014 6:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Reason: off-topic alert....
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
smsmart
Posts: 121
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:52 am
Location: San Diego, CA

Ronzuki wrote:That's no surprise. At the cost of that fluid, they just made a bunch of money off you by performing a service that isn't required until 90k miles according to the maintenance schedule. Did they change the filter in the trans? That would be they only reason I could think of to replace the fluid that early. 60k is certainly a more reasonable number w/ respect to the 90k recommendation by Suzuki.
I believe they did change the filter, although I would have to refer back to the paperwork. If I recall correctly, there were four separate mentions of 'filter'...cabin, air, oil, and some other cryptic one.

So I guess I can wait 'til 90k miles for the next change? :lol:
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Ronzuki
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Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

I'd say so. I'm doing mine at 50k unless that occurs next winter time-frame. Then I'll just do it spring 2015. The OE pan gasket and filter are in the neighborhood of $40-50 each, so you'd notice the price for sure on your receipt.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded :D :D )
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top ( :| sold)
SamirD
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Location: HSV and SFO
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Hill hold sounds like something that's being done in the transmission vs the brakes. Actuating the brakes would require something to apply the pedal or something like that or a line lock (which would be crazy surprising).
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