Ask technical questions or post on problems/issues related to the Kizashi under this topic. Symptoms and pictures of your problem are a good idea.
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SamirD wrote:Hill hold sounds like something that's being done in the transmission vs the brakes. Actuating the brakes would require something to apply the pedal or something like that or a line lock (which would be crazy surprising).
Something like the ESP system. That can activate your brakes for you- so why not do some software programming and use it for the hill hold?
PS: That might not be the case, but the hardware is certainly there to activate the brakes.
SamirD wrote:Hill hold sounds like something that's being done in the transmission vs the brakes. Actuating the brakes would require something to apply the pedal or something like that or a line lock (which would be crazy surprising).
Something like the ESP system. That can activate your brakes for you- so why not do some software programming and use it for the hill hold?
PS: That might not be the case, but the hardware is certainly there to activate the brakes.
I've always thought that the esp system could only modulate the brakes for you just like abs (using the abs controller)? I wouldn't like it very much if the car could totally apply the brakes without me. I hate those type of systems.
OK, so I finally remembered to take notice of my idle:
Last night after arriving home, fully warmed up, ambient 24 degF, no electrical load of any kind other than foot on brake, car in drive, 600ish? rpm. Foot off brake and ebrake applied, car in drive 650ish? rpm
This morning arriving to work, fully warmed up, ambient 12 degF, no electrical load of any kind, same results as last night.
It would appear the ECU is idling down when brakes are applied (in an effort to conserve fuel while stopped?). When the idle drops, the low rpm rumble is there, but it is not a rough idle.
My car is an earlier model 2010 and still has all the original factory supplied firmware, meaning, I've never had the dealer (or anyone else) re-flash any of the car's control units for any reason. The battery has been disconnected once, for replacement, long enough to possibly reset some of the car's 'learned' behavior (doubtful as I noticed no difference while driving). Keep in mind, there are several different ECU part numbers over the short span of our car's life and I believe four different TCUs for (2) different CVT p/n's as well (in the U.S. at least). All of these various combinations of hardware and firmware could easily yield different results between us all to many operational characteristics.
Yep, so it's just a modified smart abs controller with some additional sensors in the mix to give the ecu more input to make decisions. That explains why the cost of the abs controllers have really gone up in the last few decades.
Ronzuki wrote:Last night after arriving home, fully warmed up, ambient 24 degF, no electrical load of any kind other than foot on brake, car in drive, 600ish? rpm. Foot off brake and ebrake applied, car in drive 650ish? rpm
This morning arriving to work, fully warmed up, ambient 12 degF, no electrical load of any kind, same results as last night.
It would appear the ECU is idling down when brakes are applied (in an effort to conserve fuel while stopped?). When the idle drops, the low rpm rumble is there, but it is not a rough idle.
I've had the identical experience. I've been watching it for about a week now, but hadn't put it into words.
The rumble is what I meant by rough idle. It shakes the passenger seat and I can feel it in my seat as well. I also did the test regarding putting the ebrake on and letting off the brake. Same results as above. So it's just a characteristic, at least that's what I'm gathering.
I felt the rough idle for the first time yesterday. But it was while driving. I think I had just come to a light and it dipped briefly. I can't remember the exact scenario, but I do remember feeling the shaking in the steering wheel and a bit in the seat.
So when I was at Ray Suzuki (Chevrolet) today, Steve pointed out that my idle was a bit low. I said, yeah, I noticed that but didn't pay it any mind. The first question he asked was 'what air filter do you have?' I answered stock, but then remembered that there's a K&N drop-in filter. He said that's the issue. I looked at him with a puzzled look.
He quickly said that K&N filters are great, but that the Kizashi is so particular about its airflow that the wrong filter causes this idle issue.
Something to try as a genuine Suzuki filter isn't too much and you can do it yourself. I had recently disassembled the entire airbox when trying to get my headlight bulb out, but I think it was doing this before I tried to get to the bulb.
SamirD wrote:So when I was at Ray Suzuki (Chevrolet) today, Steve pointed out that my idle was a bit low. I said, yeah, I noticed that but didn't pay it any mind. The first question he asked was 'what air filter do you have?' I answered stock, but then remembered that there's a K&N drop-in filter. He said that's the issue. I looked at him with a puzzled look.
He quickly said that K&N filters are great, but that the Kizashi is so particular about its airflow that the wrong filter causes this idle issue.
Something to try as a genuine Suzuki filter isn't too much and you can do it yourself. I had recently disassembled the entire airbox when trying to get my headlight bulb out, but I think it was doing this before I tried to get to the bulb.
Changing the air filter is typically easy in any car. It's very easy in the Kizashi due to the air box location and clip housing. Other cars can be more difficult due to a recessed design or the use of screws in the housing like with Hondas.