Good work. So many people say soldering is the way to go on cars, but don't realise the solder wicks up the cable strands- over time this can causes the individual strands to break with cable movement/ vibration. As long as the correct crimping tool is used it's the best option where there's any vibration.bootymac wrote: Connections are crimped.
Grounding kit
David
Good to know! I just crimped them out of lazinessmurcod wrote:Good work. So many people say soldering is the way to go on cars, but don't realise the solder wicks up the cable strands- over time this can causes the individual strands to break with cable movement/ vibration. As long as the correct crimping tool is used it's the best option where there's any vibration.bootymac wrote: Connections are crimped.
That's what "they" say, but I'm not buying it. I've always soldered and put shrink tubing on, never had a problem since I started working on cars around 1970.murcod wrote:Good work. So many people say soldering is the way to go on cars, but don't realise the solder wicks up the cable strands- over time this can causes the individual strands to break with cable movement/ vibration. As long as the correct crimping tool is used it's the best option where there's any vibration.bootymac wrote: Connections are crimped.
Yeah, so did the factory. And that's exactly why cars start having grounding problems when they're ten years old.bootymac wrote:Good to know! I just crimped them out of laziness
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
"They" are the people who set the stringent rules for maintaining wiring on aircraft. (Aircraft don't just come to a stop by the side of the road if there's an electrical failure- so "they" do need to know a thing or two about reliable wiring practices!)Woodie wrote:
That's what "they" say, but I'm not buying it. I've always soldered and put shrink tubing on, never had a problem since I started working on cars around 1970.
Soldering an engine to body earthing lead is sure to end in failure. The engine rocking on it's mounts will slowly but surely break the cable.
Here's a fairly concise article on each method: http://www.marinewireandcable.com/2013/ ... e-and.html
The biggest failure with crimps is when people don't use the correct crimping tools or use cheap crimp terminals.
David
Thank you for the awesome writeup with pics! It seems quite easy, especially with those empty holes in the block and alternator. 
I bet you could start selling a ground kit, lol.
I bet you could start selling a ground kit, lol.
Definitely a lot of potential in the Kizashi market. I'll make tens of dollars!SamirD wrote:Thank you for the awesome writeup with pics! It seems quite easy, especially with those empty holes in the block and alternator.
I bet you could start selling a ground kit, lol.
A grounding kit can be cheaply and easily made without any special tools. Each wire only takes a few minutes to make! Here's a quick run down of what's involved:
Materials:
- 8 AWG wiring (stranded copper is preferred)
- 8 AWG ring terminals
- 3/8" or 10mm heat shrink tubing
Tools:
- exacto knife (to strip wire insulation)
- wire crimpers (you could get away with basic ones too)
- lighter (to set heat shrink)
Costs:
- wiring: ~50-80c per ft
- ring terminals: ~25-50c each
- heat shrink: ~50c per ft
I found this ground point while under the car today. It grounds the subframe to the chassis. No heat shrink or anything protecting the crimped connections even though they're exposed to the elements. Might be worth upgrading
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Interesting. Where exactly is it located? I've been under the car a number of times and never saw the ground wire.
I didn't even get to changing the oil today as I had to help someone move with my VW bus. That thing hauls (just miserably slowly).
I'll look for a ground wire when I'm under the car for the oil change next weekend.
I didn't even get to changing the oil today as I had to help someone move with my VW bus. That thing hauls (just miserably slowly).
I'll look for a ground wire when I'm under the car for the oil change next weekend.
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
lol! Tens of dollars.bootymac wrote:Definitely a lot of potential in the Kizashi market. I'll make tens of dollars!SamirD wrote:Thank you for the awesome writeup with pics! It seems quite easy, especially with those empty holes in the block and alternator.
I bet you could start selling a ground kit, lol.
A grounding kit can be cheaply and easily made without any special tools. Each wire only takes a few minutes to make! Here's a quick run down of what's involved:
Materials:
- 8 AWG wiring (stranded copper is preferred)
- 8 AWG ring terminals
- 3/8" or 10mm heat shrink tubing
Tools:
- exacto knife (to strip wire insulation)
- wire crimpers (you could get away with basic ones too)
- lighter (to set heat shrink)
Costs:
- wiring: ~50-80c per ft
- ring terminals: ~25-50c each
- heat shrink: ~50c per ft
I'll have to use that somewhere in a conversation. Seems like a pretty easy list of stuff to get and put together. Do you remember the length you used for each wire?
Great find! This would probably be quite important for us in the salt-prone parts of the world.bootymac wrote:I found this ground point while under the car today. It grounds the subframe to the chassis. No heat shrink or anything protecting the crimped connections even though they're exposed to the elements. Might be worth upgrading
Judging by the pictures and the ball joint in the second shot, I'm going to hazard a guess that this is on the passenger side just inside of where the front jack point is.
But something tells me you'll need to remove the under trays to find it.