Rear Shock failure issue and TSB & Warranty Repair

[murcod]

So what is he suggesting is the cause? Poor quality shocks??

[KuroNekko]

If moisture retention is the actual cause of the corrosion which leads to shock failure, then the modified bump stopper should at least alleviate the issue. It was modified to allow better water evacuation from the part.
I guess we'll have to wait and see how it holds up.

[bootymac]

It's too bad the dust sleeve prevents you from seeing rust on the shock piston. You can't really tell until the shocks have already failed

[Ronzuki]

So what is he suggesting is the cause? Poor quality shocks??

The shear amount of road crud (salt/stone dust, dried horse stuff, etc.) that builds up on top of the things. There where two small piles on the floor beneath each shock when he was done the swap. Piles, not just a dust smattering. It's amazing how that much crap was able to find its way behind the plastic inner wheel wells covers and simply remain there.

[murcod]

But is it from the top of the shock - or just from behind the wheel well liners? (You mention both.)

The idea of the combined bump stop/ shock dust boot - is to minimise that stuff getting to the shock piston area. If it is getting in to the piston seal area of the shock then it's a problem, but if that just general "gunk" in the wheel well area then that's totally normal for any car.

Suzuki's explanation of water entering from above and causing piston corrosion/ subsequent seal failure makes sense. There shouldn't be an accumulation of dirt on top of the shock body (under the dust cover.)

[Woodie]

I don't see anything different from any other car's rear strut design. I also don't see how this bumpstop has anything to do with it. It's mounted all the way up at the top of the shaft, the redesigned portion is practically in the trunk.

[Ronzuki]

Crap is going to get on top of it and work its way down towards the seal. If it doesn't get flushed away regularly, it's going to corrode the shaft and/or degrade the seal. The piles of crud came from everywhere in the area of the shock the mechanic was working. It has been proven effective to not use any type of boot on off-road shocks for this reason, they trap crap and moisture and cause failures. Plain and simple, that's the problem...the crud can't be flushed away easily by simply driving down a wet road or intentional washing.

[bootymac]

This thread is missing the actual TSB. Can one of the mods edit the quoted post (first reply) to include a link to the TSB found here: http://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewto ... 671#p20671

I've posted about my creaking shock earlier tonight. There is even a Technical Service Bulletin about it. Hope you had yours covered by warranty. I'm taking my car in soon as I've had a leaking shock in my previous Mazda and the Kizashi is now making a very similar noise.

[KuroNekko]

This thread is missing the actual TSB. Can one of the mods edit the quoted post (first reply) to include a link to the TSB found here: http://www.kizashiclub.com/forum/viewto ... 671#p20671

I've posted about my creaking shock earlier tonight. There is even a Technical Service Bulletin about it. Hope you had yours covered by warranty. I'm taking my car in soon as I've had a leaking shock in my previous Mazda and the Kizashi is now making a very similar noise.

I added the TSB PDF to my post that you quoted. It's the very 2nd post in this thread.

In fact, here it is again for convenience's sake:

526 TS 01 05223 Kizashi Rear Shock Leak FINAL 052313.pdf

(703.09 KiB) Downloaded 552 times

[bootymac]

Thanks! That should make life easier for future users.