Worried about my engine coolant.

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KansasKid
Posts: 429
Joined: Sun Mar 31, 2013 2:19 am
Location: Kansas City, Kansas

Yeah, I'm pretty sure I didn't add more than a quart of the not OEM coolant, so I'm going to keep an eye out for any discoloration in the coolant.

Do you have any preferred reference material for proper air bleeding techniques? I never thought about air bubbles in the coolant system that may need to be addressed?
My Cars (Their Names)
'93 Ford Escort (Jorge - Prior)
'06 Kia Optima EX (Sakuya - Prior)
'11 Suzuki Kizashi SE AWD (Azumi)
'09 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Base 5MT(Akari - Prior)
'11 Chevy Cruze Eco 6MT (Erika - Prior)
'12 Suzuki Kizashi Sport SLS AWD (Kitsune)
murcod
Posts: 2279
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:03 pm
Location: Australia

Check the online workshop manual. I'm fairly sure there isn't a specialised bleeding procedure - just top up the radiator and wait until the thermostat opens -> ie. when the top radiator hose gets hot (topping it until that occurs.) Then refit the cap and make sure the reservoir is to the full mark. (Having the interior heater setting to max will probably help the process.)

Check the level again once the engine has totally cooled. If it's a bit low it will have sucked coolant from the reservoir back into the engine.
David
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Ronzuki
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Joined: Wed Nov 17, 2010 5:33 pm
Location: Lancaster County, PA

Some vehicles are a real PITA to get all of the trapped air out of the system. The I6 4.0 in my wrangler was one. Most engines, just run them and keep topping off...the air works its way out. My Jeep'' 4.0, the air had to be coaxed to get out. Raising the nose of the Jeep on ramps was the trick. It's a long straight 6 engine and the trapped air had to be helped along to find its way towards the radiator. The air pockets would remain, the levels appeared fine yet the thing would run hotter than it should. There were pockets of air in the block that never released causing pockets of heat (bad). I'd imagine a closed loop and 'powered' flush would remove all trapped air, but I did the coolant change in that thing myself.
Ron

2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
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KuroNekko
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Joined: Wed Aug 15, 2012 5:08 pm
Location: California, USA

It's my experience that pressurized radiator cooling systems (cap on the radiator) usually don't have a bleeder screw so you bleed out air the way Ronzuki described.

For pressurized reservoir cooling systems (pressurized cap on reservoir such as seen with Ford and GM models) there is a bleeder screw/cap on the engine. This makes bleeding much more convenient. I've personally done it on a Ford, GM, and Mazda engine.

Our Suzukis are the first type with the cap on the radiator so I doubt it has a dedicated bleeder screw somewhere, but as Murcod suggested, check the service manual for details.
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murcod
Posts: 2279
Joined: Fri Aug 03, 2012 12:03 pm
Location: Australia

You can definitely get engines with the pressurised cap on the radiator that have bleed screws. An example I know of is the locally made Holden VL Commodore with RB30 Nissan engine- a pic of the engine bay is here http://gallery.oldholden.com/d/182108-1 ... ite+VL.JPG

I think these days manufacturers have "wised up" and design their vehicles a bit better.
David
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