Keep checking cars.com, autotrader.com, craigslist.org, etc for used ones. Then just take one for a test drive.
Like this one. Don't know how far, but I guess it would depend on how serious you are.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/4568224837.html
Steering is driving me nuts!!
The front clunk is quite likely to be the end links on the front sway bar. I've had the same issue long term with the dealer also unable (unwilling?) to reproduce any problem. I recently took the plunge and replaced the end links - the loud clunking noise is now gone. The stock end links are very flimsy/ "loose" in the ball joint ends. (Mine had done it from new and has only covered 9000km.)smsmart wrote: Funny you mention a clunk...there is actually a clunk coming from somewhere in front of the car when going over bigger bumps, and it's been going on for a long time...even predating this steering issue. I brought it up with the dealer early on but of course they told me they couldn't hear anything...I'm not sure though if it has anything to do with the suspension though, because to me it sounds like it's coming from inside the car, although maybe that's misleading.
Also, I should mention that there is a distinct creaking coming from the front suspension when going over certain significant bumps. For example, in the parking garage where I work, there is a speed bump that always causes me to hear the creaking whenever I drive over it, probably because it's big enough to cause the car to really compress the front shocks. Otherwise you don't hear it, but this morning in fact, I actually heard it again when driving through an intersection that had a pretty big dip in it...probably because I was driving fast enough to cause the car to really drop down low when going through the dip.
I'm not sure if it's related, but I did bring up the creaking with the dealer, but of course they once again told me the couldn't reproduce the problem. Which this time I can't really blame them, because given how stiff the suspension is on this car, it's pretty hard to compress the shocks enough to hear the creak I think...but I'm pretty sure it's there. That being said, I can't tell if there's anything wrong with them...casual observation when taking the wheels off doesn't show any leakage or defects on them.
The other noise sounds like it could be shock absorbers? They could certainly give you the steering symptoms you're describing. They could also be the source of the clunking noise?
You don't have any suspension stores that have a "drive on" type suspension testing equipment? A local chain has such gear- I'm not sure how good it is- but it could be of assistance with cases like your Kizashi. They can supposedly check out the operation of shock absorbers and the clunking may also show up?
David
Sorry guys, I've been out of the country for a while so I wasn't able to keep up with the thread.murcod wrote:The front clunk is quite likely to be the end links on the front sway bar. I've had the same issue long term with the dealer also unable (unwilling?) to reproduce any problem. I recently took the plunge and replaced the end links - the loud clunking noise is now gone. The stock end links are very flimsy/ "loose" in the ball joint ends. (Mine had done it from new and has only covered 9000km.)
The other noise sounds like it could be shock absorbers? They could certainly give you the steering symptoms you're describing. They could also be the source of the clunking noise?
You don't have any suspension stores that have a "drive on" type suspension testing equipment? A local chain has such gear- I'm not sure how good it is- but it could be of assistance with cases like your Kizashi. They can supposedly check out the operation of shock absorbers and the clunking may also show up?
Anywho, I'm not sure, there might be a shop nearby with such equipment, but I've never had to go in with suspension problems before, so I'm not sure. Maybe the local Midas would have something like that.
By the way, would temperature affect the performance of the bushings or shock absorbers? Sometimes it feels like the steering performance improves/worsen depending on how hot or humid it is outside, but I wonder if that's just my imagination.
Anyway, any idea where I should get replacement swaybar bushings? I saw the other thread about them on here but I wasn't sure whether they ended up working on the Kizashi. Is it possible to get replacements at the dealer? Would I want to?
Just as an update, I went ahead and ordered new swaybar bushings to see if they help alleviate the problem. Hopefully they aren't too difficult to replace.
At the very least, hopefully they get rid of the squeaking noise I'm getting in the front of the car on dips in the road.
At the very least, hopefully they get rid of the squeaking noise I'm getting in the front of the car on dips in the road.
Good point... For some reason it looked/sounded easier to me than it might actually be. I had a look at the service manual just last night and it mentioned having to disassemble the suspension frame in order to remove the swaybar...which doesn't really sound like something I'd want to domurcod wrote:The "D" bushes? Let me know how you go replacing them, I've had a look and it didn't look like an easy task.
So I'm not sure, I might have just bought some unnecessary parts, haha.
The bushings won't be too hard to remove and replace. Taking the bar out would be a major hassle and probably require the cross-member to come off.smsmart wrote:Good point... For some reason it looked/sounded easier to me than it might actually be. I had a look at the service manual just last night and it mentioned having to disassemble the suspension frame in order to remove the swaybar...which doesn't really sound like something I'd want to domurcod wrote:The "D" bushes? Let me know how you go replacing them, I've had a look and it didn't look like an easy task.
Have you verified that the sway bar bushings are at fault? Ever get under the car and look at them? I took photos of mine once while I was changing the oil.
I determined then that the bushings are accessible, though there will be clearance issues. You will definitely want a ratcheting box wrench for the RH side. The LH side looks rather accessible.
Refer to this thread on the front sway bar bushings. I took photos of both sides so you have a sense of accessibility.
http://kizashiclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3056
Personally, if I had to replace them, I'd actually get aftermarket polyurethane ones. They are more firm and durable than the OE rubber ones so not only will they last longer, they will actually improve the handling as well.
In fact, firmer bushings are sometimes part of performance packages on cars and one of the few subtle differences between the Tesla Model S P85 and the P85+.
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
How would I take the bushings off the bar though? In the other thread I saw you mention there being a slit in the bushing, but I don't see anything like that in the picture. Wouldn't I have to slip the bushings off the end of the swaybar in order to get them off? And if that's the case, wouldn't I have to take the whole bar off?KuroNekko wrote:The bushings won't be too hard to remove and replace. Taking the bar out would be a major hassle and probably require the cross-member to come off.
Have you verified that the sway bar bushings are at fault? Ever get under the car and look at them? I took photos of mine once while I was changing the oil.
I determined then that the bushings are accessible, though there will be clearance issues. You will definitely want a ratcheting box wrench for the RH side. The LH side looks rather accessible.
Refer to this thread on the front sway bar bushings. I took photos of both sides so you have a sense of accessibility.
http://kizashiclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=3056
Personally, if I had to replace them, I'd actually get aftermarket polyurethane ones. They are more firm and durable than the OE rubber ones so not only will they last longer, they will actually improve the handling as well.
In fact, firmer bushings are sometimes part of performance packages on cars and one of the few subtle differences between the Tesla Model S P85 and the P85+.
I don't know for sure if the bushings are at fault, but I have a feeling they might be because I basically have the exact same noise coming off the front end that kevvvinc had in his video (not available anymore unfortunately) that he posted a while back. It's this sort of crunching noise every I go over speed bumps or dips in the road.
Kevvvinc mentioned that the bushings ended up being the culprit after the dealer finally took them off and there was wear on the inside of them, which was not noticeable from the outside. Replacing them solved the problem.
Anyway, I figure that if I'm going to go to the trouble of taking the bushings off to see if there's wear, I might as well put in new ones while I'm at it. I didn't get polyurethane bushings though because I didn't which ones/where to get them. So I just went with the stock ones.
You can't see the slit well while these bushings are installed. You can only see them once the clamp over them is off. This was the case with the rear sway bar and bushings. I've personally dealt with them given I installed the RRM rear sway bar myself.
You don't need to remove the whole bar to remove the bushing. Just take the bolts off that hold down the clamp. Remove the clamp. Then, you need to slip the bushing off of the bar via the slit in it. It will take some muscle, but I imagine that once the clamps are off, you can probably move the bushings a bit for easier access to remove them from the bar. I'd even use some spray lubricant if it's hard. WD-40 or the like should help. Heck, if you plan to replace them, then you can even cut the old ones off if need be.
In case it's still confusing about the slit, examine the picture below. This is what the bushing looks like without a clamp over it. See the slit? That's how these things go on and off. They don't get pushed in from the open ends of the bars. This is why a bushing replacement is possible without the bar being detached from the vehicle.
P.S. Grease the inside of the bushings. This will both alleviate friction issues in installation and use. The bushings should come with grease. If not, find and use some silicon grease. The RRM kit came with it.
You don't need to remove the whole bar to remove the bushing. Just take the bolts off that hold down the clamp. Remove the clamp. Then, you need to slip the bushing off of the bar via the slit in it. It will take some muscle, but I imagine that once the clamps are off, you can probably move the bushings a bit for easier access to remove them from the bar. I'd even use some spray lubricant if it's hard. WD-40 or the like should help. Heck, if you plan to replace them, then you can even cut the old ones off if need be.
In case it's still confusing about the slit, examine the picture below. This is what the bushing looks like without a clamp over it. See the slit? That's how these things go on and off. They don't get pushed in from the open ends of the bars. This is why a bushing replacement is possible without the bar being detached from the vehicle.
P.S. Grease the inside of the bushings. This will both alleviate friction issues in installation and use. The bushings should come with grease. If not, find and use some silicon grease. The RRM kit came with it.
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
They'll have the split in them for certain. Access to undo the bolts and fit the bushes will be a problem. Being factory "rubber" bushes might be a blessing as the saddle clamps will be easier to fit over them- sometimes the polyurethane bushes can be very hard to get the clamps back over.
Some bushes are impregnated with oil/ grease (or don't require any)- my guess is that will be the case with the OEM bushes.
Some bushes are impregnated with oil/ grease (or don't require any)- my guess is that will be the case with the OEM bushes.
David