There seems to be a lot of speculation around the AWD system in the Kizashi of wildly varying claims. I would like to try and collate some of those claims into a single thread for easier digestion. I did a brief search of the forums for information about the Kizashi's AWD, but it was hard to filter out the posts that were just mentioning "AWD" or "powertrain" in passing and ones that had any clear description of the AWD systems handling/understeer vs. oversteer characteristics.
So far, one of the more widely accepted claims I've seen about the Kizashi's AWD system is that it only shunts power to the rear wheels when it detects traction is being lost. I disagree with this claim, but wish to hear from some of the other forum members about their impressions and assertions.
My only other handling experience is with my FWD Kia Optima, which does nothing but understeer since the parking brake is messed up in it now. I'm curious to hear from not only the other AWD Kizashi drivers on any minute details about their oversteer vs. understeer experiences, but from the FWD Kizashi drivers as well. I really want to replace my Kia with a 6-speed Kizashi GTS or better, so any feedback I could get on it's handling characteristics would be super-greatly appreciated.
Kizashi AWD - Facts, Myths, and Impressions
My Cars (Their Names)
'93 Ford Escort (Jorge - Prior)
'06 Kia Optima EX (Sakuya - Prior)
'11 Suzuki Kizashi SE AWD (Azumi)
'09 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Base 5MT(Akari - Prior)
'11 Chevy Cruze Eco 6MT (Erika - Prior)
'12 Suzuki Kizashi Sport SLS AWD (Kitsune)
'93 Ford Escort (Jorge - Prior)
'06 Kia Optima EX (Sakuya - Prior)
'11 Suzuki Kizashi SE AWD (Azumi)
'09 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Base 5MT(Akari - Prior)
'11 Chevy Cruze Eco 6MT (Erika - Prior)
'12 Suzuki Kizashi Sport SLS AWD (Kitsune)
From the owner's manual:
Driving Modes
2WD
If you drive on a dry, paved road, select this mode to save fuel. In this mode, the engine torque transmitted to the rear wheels is limited to the minimum. (As a result, the vehicle runs in a quasi-front-wheel-drive condition.
i-AWD
This mode is for all normal driving. In almost all road surface conditions, the system keeps distributing engine torque to the rear wheels in the most suitable proportion for varying conditions under automatic control.
In the i-AWD mode, the i-AWD controller monitors the driver’s vehicle control operations and conditions of the vehicle. Based on the sensed conditions, the controller electronically controls the power coupling so that optimum torque is distributed to the rear wheels. This function improves driving stability and driving performance on rough roads and stabilizes driving performance even on snow-covered up-hill roads or the
like.
During constant speed driving, torque distribution to the rear wheels is reduced almost to the front-wheel-drive condition, thus improving fuel consumption.
Driving Modes
2WD
If you drive on a dry, paved road, select this mode to save fuel. In this mode, the engine torque transmitted to the rear wheels is limited to the minimum. (As a result, the vehicle runs in a quasi-front-wheel-drive condition.
i-AWD
This mode is for all normal driving. In almost all road surface conditions, the system keeps distributing engine torque to the rear wheels in the most suitable proportion for varying conditions under automatic control.
In the i-AWD mode, the i-AWD controller monitors the driver’s vehicle control operations and conditions of the vehicle. Based on the sensed conditions, the controller electronically controls the power coupling so that optimum torque is distributed to the rear wheels. This function improves driving stability and driving performance on rough roads and stabilizes driving performance even on snow-covered up-hill roads or the
like.
During constant speed driving, torque distribution to the rear wheels is reduced almost to the front-wheel-drive condition, thus improving fuel consumption.
The i-AWD system is also used for torque vectoring to combat oversteer / understeer conditions that occur during cornering. A basic description of this is spelled out in the online service manual under Section 3B, "General description", "Vehicle Dynamics Synthetic Control Description" and Section 10B, "General description", "Description of Vehicle Dynamics Synthetic Control".
The later section has some helpful diagrams in addition to the descriptions. Section 4F, discussing the ABS / ESP control may also be of interest, though the ESP does its work independently of the "Vehicle Dynamics" system (shown in a diagram in 10B).
Online manual link: (not hosted by me)
http://avnet.synology.me/kizashi/Xml/SAW10A/
The later section has some helpful diagrams in addition to the descriptions. Section 4F, discussing the ABS / ESP control may also be of interest, though the ESP does its work independently of the "Vehicle Dynamics" system (shown in a diagram in 10B).
Online manual link: (not hosted by me)
http://avnet.synology.me/kizashi/Xml/SAW10A/
-
- Posts: 485
- Joined: Mon Jul 22, 2013 8:31 pm
According to the SX4 manual, it's AWD system is 95% front, 5% rear in iAWD mode. I believe this is the same for the Kizashi AWD system, however the Kizashi system responds to slippage faster. For instance, the SX4 system will gradually add torque slowly to gain traction as it's far more suited (and designed) to work offroad. The Kizashi is more performance oriented, therefore, torque is sent to the rear wheels MUCH faster to combat over\understeer and handle better on dry pavement. I believe the design will not physically allow for a greater than 50% torque split to the rear wheels.
I actually think of the system a bit like a front-wheel-assist system in a tractor (except exactly opposite). There is constant power sent to the rear wheels, however, torque is sent only when needed.
I actually think of the system a bit like a front-wheel-assist system in a tractor (except exactly opposite). There is constant power sent to the rear wheels, however, torque is sent only when needed.
Murcod posted this link before and it's the best explanation of the Kizashi's iAWD system that I've seen so far: http://www.familycar.com.au/app/article ... izashi-awd
Kizashi Sport AWD actually anticipates oversteer or understeer and can split drive to either the front or rear wheels to provide maximum driving enjoyment
...
For example, when you accelerate from rest, the system detects the extra throttle input and automatically sends drive to the rear wheels to ensure a smooth, safe take-off.
...
He explained a key element of the new i-AWD system was feedforward control, which adjusts the proportion of engine torque sent to the rear wheels according to road conditions, vehicle dynamic conditions and driver input.
...
With the Kizashi Sport AWD, the new active handling works in partnership with ESP to ensure optimum handling levels. We call it synergetic vehicle dynamics control.”
By constantly monitoring inputs from all the ESP sensors – wheel, steering wheel, yaw and lateral g – the system can anticipate when to increase or decrease torque to the front or rear wheels and even provides counter-steering assistance.
The technology adds an extra level of driving enjoyment, while working in tandem with ESP to ensure occupant safety levels are never compromised.
Yes, agreed...that description in Murcod's link is spot on. There's no comparing how the car drives, handles and reacts with the iAWD activated, running aggressively through the twisties on dry ground. Night and day difference On versus Off. As to the fuel savings with it OFF, I can't say I really notice any difference. I drive with the iAWD engaged quite a bit in fair weather and all the time in the rain. I'm just not seeing it...it's very minimal if any. You're still lugging the mass of the AWD hardware around, the drive shaft to the rear diff is always spinning, so there's really no upside to having it disengaged other than the possibility of extending the viscous unit's life span. The plus side is superior handling and control all of the time.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded


1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (

Thanks for posting the original article, bottymac. I saw murcod's post in another thread, but I didn't know what article he was sourcing.bootymac wrote:Murcod posted this link before and it's the best explanation of the Kizashi's iAWD system that I've seen so far: http://www.familycar.com.au/app/article ... izashi-awd
After reading through the article, I'm a little concerned about it's journalistic integrity. Besides feeling a little like an advertisement, the article above and this article from the same site seemed to have a few conflicting details that I wasn't aware of (AU: XL/XLS vs. US: GTS/SLS??). Now I'm curious about the difference between the Australian Kizashies and the American ones. That and the familycar.com.au website hasn't been updated in a couple years, and most of it's articles were written by the same author, which is a little weird. Regardless of the article's presumed authenticity, it's one of the only articles I've seen that actually describes the Kizashi AWD system. Does anyone know if the Sport AWD system referenced in the article murcod posted only in the GTS/SLS models, or is it in all CVT Kizashies?
I was curious if anyone else has gotten their Kizashi into something that feels like a power oversteer-like situation. I've only managed to do it a few times on pavement with the AWD turned on, TCS turned off, and even then I have to be in a pretty hard turn. These weren't mind blowing drifts either. I just got enough of the backend to step out in the turn to make the hair on my arms stand up. I'm sure it'd be a lot easier if I'd take my Kizashi on more gravel roads, or if it snowed more often, but I digress.
On a side note, a 6 speed manual Kizashi S popped up at the CarMax down the street from my place. I plan on going to test drive it sometime over the course of the Thanksgiving weekend, just to see what it's like, and to compare with my SE AWD model. That way I'll have a bit better idea of what to look for when I finally have the money to get a manual GTS/SLS. I'm going to see if I can take it over to a little spot where there are a few hairpin turns nearby. That is if the sales guy that's inevitably going to tag along doesn't be a debbie-downer. Has anyone else driven both a manual S and a manual GTS/SLS?
My Cars (Their Names)
'93 Ford Escort (Jorge - Prior)
'06 Kia Optima EX (Sakuya - Prior)
'11 Suzuki Kizashi SE AWD (Azumi)
'09 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Base 5MT(Akari - Prior)
'11 Chevy Cruze Eco 6MT (Erika - Prior)
'12 Suzuki Kizashi Sport SLS AWD (Kitsune)
'93 Ford Escort (Jorge - Prior)
'06 Kia Optima EX (Sakuya - Prior)
'11 Suzuki Kizashi SE AWD (Azumi)
'09 Subaru Impreza 2.5i Base 5MT(Akari - Prior)
'11 Chevy Cruze Eco 6MT (Erika - Prior)
'12 Suzuki Kizashi Sport SLS AWD (Kitsune)
Kansas...your alignment has everything to do with the cars handling and at least some of the issues you describe above. Have you had it checked by a competent shop yet? These cars need regular checks and adjustments (at least the SLS GTS suspensions). I've found over the course of 4 alignments, that the "window" of 'within spec' is far too large and the car will handle very differently depending how it's setup within those specs. Right now, I'm adjusted on the twitchy side of things, still in spec, but much different than before the last alignment, which technically was still within spec.
Ron
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded
)
1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
sold)
2010 Kizashi GTS, CVT, iAWD (3/10 build date)
2011 SX4 Premium Hatch, CVT, iAWD (12/10 build date)
2018 Mazda CX-5 iAWD Touring
2014 Wrangler JKUW (GONE, traded


1991 Samurai, 5-Speed, EFI, Soft-Top (
