I have 36K miles on my car and was informed last month that no only do I need to change the brakes but the rotors as well. I didn't even know my brakes were worn down and wasn't told of such at my last inspection a couple months prior. Nothing irritates me more than unnecessary costs.
On average, how often are you guys changing out your brakes? 36K miles seems a little low.
Let's talk about brakes
I managed to get get 90K on the original set. I decided to go ahead and change them out and found they all still had plenty of pad left. Mind you driving style and environment have a lot to do with that.
2011 SE AWD PLATINUM SILVER W/RRM INTAKE AND CUSTOM CAT BACK
Driving conditions (as in both driving environment and driving style) are the main factor in brake longevity.
If you often drive in stop-and-go traffic, in the city, on mountains/hilly areas, and/or like to drive fast and brake hard, your brakes will have a shorter life.
If you live in a rather flat, rural or suburban area and often drive highways speeds with little stopping, and are easy on the brakes, your brakes will last longer.
Basically, it's hard to say how long brakes should last on average because it's most dependent on your driving conditions.
I'm currently at something like 42,000 miles and looking to replace both my brake pads and rotors. The pads have some life left but the rotors are warped. Overall, the car stops decently in city traffic but at higher speeds, it's nowhere close to when I first got it. In fact, at freeway speeds, the shuddering is concerning. Given the Kizashi originally had very good, confident braking, I'd rather restore it to that point sooner than worry about how long my brakes should have lasted. I decided to try out slotted rotors and higher performance brake pads because I was curious to see an improvement in braking, especially in more demanding circumstances.
Also, from my reading on brakes and rotor replacements, it seems that these days, rotor replacements are becoming more the norm than in the past. In the past, brakes weren't as effective but were easier on the rotors. Rotors could be machined (resurfaced) to last a few brake pad replacement cycles. Now, brake pads are more effective but their materials are harsher on rotors and wear them out faster. It's becoming more common now to replace rotors along with the brake pads. While this is more costly, keep in mind brakes are better than before and are stopping heavier modern vehicles at shorter stopping distances.
Personally, I think replacing rotors is overall better for the DIYer. I've always found it cumbersome to find a place to professionally machine rotors so I'd just take a coarse sandpaper and sand off the "glaze" from the rotor in what I hoped was an effective manner. Now, I'd rather just get new rotors given most aren't that expensive paired with new pads to restore the braking system to optimal conditions. You can also recycle old rotors. Just take them to a place like Autozone along with used oil and they should accept them. If they decline the rotors, remind them that their website explicitly states they collect and recycle used rotors. Worked for me.
http://www.autozoneinc.com/about_us/env ... nsibility/
If you often drive in stop-and-go traffic, in the city, on mountains/hilly areas, and/or like to drive fast and brake hard, your brakes will have a shorter life.
If you live in a rather flat, rural or suburban area and often drive highways speeds with little stopping, and are easy on the brakes, your brakes will last longer.
Basically, it's hard to say how long brakes should last on average because it's most dependent on your driving conditions.
I'm currently at something like 42,000 miles and looking to replace both my brake pads and rotors. The pads have some life left but the rotors are warped. Overall, the car stops decently in city traffic but at higher speeds, it's nowhere close to when I first got it. In fact, at freeway speeds, the shuddering is concerning. Given the Kizashi originally had very good, confident braking, I'd rather restore it to that point sooner than worry about how long my brakes should have lasted. I decided to try out slotted rotors and higher performance brake pads because I was curious to see an improvement in braking, especially in more demanding circumstances.
Also, from my reading on brakes and rotor replacements, it seems that these days, rotor replacements are becoming more the norm than in the past. In the past, brakes weren't as effective but were easier on the rotors. Rotors could be machined (resurfaced) to last a few brake pad replacement cycles. Now, brake pads are more effective but their materials are harsher on rotors and wear them out faster. It's becoming more common now to replace rotors along with the brake pads. While this is more costly, keep in mind brakes are better than before and are stopping heavier modern vehicles at shorter stopping distances.
Personally, I think replacing rotors is overall better for the DIYer. I've always found it cumbersome to find a place to professionally machine rotors so I'd just take a coarse sandpaper and sand off the "glaze" from the rotor in what I hoped was an effective manner. Now, I'd rather just get new rotors given most aren't that expensive paired with new pads to restore the braking system to optimal conditions. You can also recycle old rotors. Just take them to a place like Autozone along with used oil and they should accept them. If they decline the rotors, remind them that their website explicitly states they collect and recycle used rotors. Worked for me.
http://www.autozoneinc.com/about_us/env ... nsibility/
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
On my first one my fronts lasted past 90K and the rears needed replacement at 82K.
So I went with SP Performance slotted rotors and their pads.
They were still good at 164K (okay, the rears might have needed pads....) when I traded out.
I abuse my brakes when I'm using them, but baby them when I'm not
So I went with SP Performance slotted rotors and their pads.
They were still good at 164K (okay, the rears might have needed pads....) when I traded out.
I abuse my brakes when I'm using them, but baby them when I'm not
Hey KN, I'll take those rotors. I have a friend who scraps metal for a living (not a very good one though). You could just leave them in my driveway, I'll know what they're for. Or give me a call on the weekend, you can take a look at the Firefly at the same time.KuroNekko wrote:You can also recycle old rotors. Just take them to a place like Autozone along with used oil and they should accept them. If they decline the rotors, remind them that their website explicitly states they collect and recycle used rotors. Worked for me.
http://www.autozoneinc.com/about_us/env ... nsibility/
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
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Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
Alright. When I get around to replacing the rotors on the Kizashi, I'll contact you for a drop-off. Does your buddy also take parts like old alternators, starter solenoids, and brake pads? I've got all of those laying around from other cars that I've been meaning to dispose of properly. If it can make some cash for your friend, I'd be more than happy to leave it for him.Woodie wrote:Hey KN, I'll take those rotors. I have a friend who scraps metal for a living (not a very good one though). You could just leave them in my driveway, I'll know what they're for. Or give me a call on the weekend, you can take a look at the Firefly at the same time.KuroNekko wrote:You can also recycle old rotors. Just take them to a place like Autozone along with used oil and they should accept them. If they decline the rotors, remind them that their website explicitly states they collect and recycle used rotors. Worked for me.
http://www.autozoneinc.com/about_us/env ... nsibility/
How's the Firefly coming along? Did it indeed have a blown head gasket?
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
A big killer of brakes is road salt. I am in northwest PA and the road salt causes the backing plates of the brake pads to rust, and they eventually become seized in the hardware. When that happens, the pads stop moving like they should and end up not releasing. At that point the pads wear very quickly, cause excessive brake dust, and don't stop as well. The pads sometime seize in a position that isn't parallel with the rotor surface so they wear at an angle or don't contact the rotor fully. Then the rotors get excessively rusted and soon it's all junk. We had to replace rear pads at about 25k for this reason. My friends Kizzy had the rear pads seize so badly that the friction material completely separated from the backing plate. He had about 13k miles on and the car was not even 2 years old.
I had to use a hammer and significant force to get the old pads out of the brackets on our car.
Always use a wire brush or sandpaper to clean all the rust out of the hardware and use a good heavy brake grease when putting the new pads in.
This happens to most disc brakes, not just our cars.
I find that using a self serve car wash and blasting the road salt out of the brakes a couple times over the winter seems to delay the seizing effect and prolongs brake life. Works for me anyway...
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I had to use a hammer and significant force to get the old pads out of the brackets on our car.
Always use a wire brush or sandpaper to clean all the rust out of the hardware and use a good heavy brake grease when putting the new pads in.
This happens to most disc brakes, not just our cars.
I find that using a self serve car wash and blasting the road salt out of the brakes a couple times over the winter seems to delay the seizing effect and prolongs brake life. Works for me anyway...
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When I took my 2012 sls to the dealer last year t 36k for my TSB, the dealer told me my rear brakes were down to the metal. I ignore them since the car had little mileage, 5month later I started hearing the typical metal to metal sound and realized the dealer was right. I ended up doing the rear brakes and rotors myself for about $100. I was surprised they wore out so early...
All metal, they're not picky at all.KuroNekko wrote:Alright. When I get around to replacing the rotors on the Kizashi, I'll contact you for a drop-off. Does your buddy also take parts like old alternators, starter solenoids, and brake pads? I've got all of those laying around from other cars that I've been meaning to dispose of properly. If it can make some cash for your friend, I'd be more than happy to leave it for him.
Not sure, but I don't think so. I used a plastic hose to jumper straight from the air filter to the intercooler, taking the turbo out of the intake tract. Then got it good and hot and drove it around the block a few times. No smoke from the exhaust and the inside of the hood got a fine mist of oil sprayed all over it. I'm pretty sure it's just the turbo with blown seals.How's the Firefly coming along? Did it indeed have a blown head gasket?]
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency