Had an odd thing happen on Sunday. After getting coffee at a cafe, the Kizashi made an odd noise at start-up but the engine turned over fine. I then drove on the freeway for approximately 25 minutes but the car was driving a bit off. The engine appeared sluggish compared to normal but not of much concern. The alarming part was after exiting the freeway onto surface streets, it stalled out anytime the engine went to idle-like RPMs under 1000 RPM. The scary thing was that the engine stalled every time I stepped on the clutch to slow down for a stop or a slow turn and I lost my power steering during a turn. The car would start right back up with the start button much like after someone stalled a car with the clutch.
I stopped at a shopping center parking lot as soon as I could and did not see anything obviously wrong so I disconnected the negative cable to the battery. While I initially suspected a fuel delivery issue, the cut-off was too abrupt and consistent, which indicated to me it was some sort of electric matter at fault.
After the battery disconnect for a few minutes, I reconnected and started the car. It idled normally and has run perfectly since. While I have no idea what was actually behind this issue, I'm going to chalk it up to some electrical anomaly that perhaps came about with the weird start of the car. Yeah, not scientific at all, but the matter appears resolved after the battery disconnect/ECU relearn and the car has started and run perfectly since including an 1.5 hour drive to LAX and idling in traffic. Such an odd, random, and frightening issue.
Odd stalling at idle RPMs after unusual start-up noise
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- Posts: 290
- Joined: Wed Dec 04, 2019 6:58 am
Pretty scary. Loss of power steering all of a sudden seems like a nightmare. Do you think this could be chalked up as another kind of shenanigan brought on by a dying battery? Is your battery in good health?
I had a curiously long ignition last week. The kind that suggests a dying battery. Or a need for new spark plugs lol. It was a little out of nowhere because it hasn’t happened in almost two years, when I hit 60k miles and realized I need new spark plugs (which I bought but just haven’t installed). I kind of want to check my battery life, though.
I had a curiously long ignition last week. The kind that suggests a dying battery. Or a need for new spark plugs lol. It was a little out of nowhere because it hasn’t happened in almost two years, when I hit 60k miles and realized I need new spark plugs (which I bought but just haven’t installed). I kind of want to check my battery life, though.
Current: Blue 2018 Mazda 3 GT 5-Door
Previous: Blue 2010 Ford Focus SES,
Black 2013 Kizashi Sport GTS-L (CVT; FWD)(RIP)
Previous: Blue 2010 Ford Focus SES,
Black 2013 Kizashi Sport GTS-L (CVT; FWD)(RIP)
My guess is debris landed on hot wire of mas and reading skewed enough to interrupt the normal perfect running but not enough or long enough to set a code. Engine data with scan tool is the only way to confirm that but would of had to be connected while it was happening. I would clean mas . blow out air box and intake and make sure good or new paper air filter is there. If there is a K&N remove and toss it . These are fine for the enthusiast that will keep it serviced but not a good idea for most.
I don't think it's the battery as the car starts fine and I had no issues restarting the car after each stall. A failing alternator would make more sense, but this was a one-time thing and my car has been running great since. If it happens again, I'd certainly examine electrical systems more carefully and test the alt and battery.KlutzNinja wrote: ↑Tue Nov 30, 2021 8:21 pm Pretty scary. Loss of power steering all of a sudden seems like a nightmare. Do you think this could be chalked up as another kind of shenanigan brought on by a dying battery? Is your battery in good health?
I had a curiously long ignition last week. The kind that suggests a dying battery. Or a need for new spark plugs lol. It was a little out of nowhere because it hasn’t happened in almost two years, when I hit 60k miles and realized I need new spark plugs (which I bought but just haven’t installed). I kind of want to check my battery life, though.
When I disconnected the battery at the time, I also checked the air filter box in case there was any noticeable obstruction at the filter or intake area. I saw none and the filter is relatively clean. I also recently cleaned my MAF and throttle body. I also don't use K&N filters and replace the air filter in a timely manner.old tech wrote: ↑Wed Dec 01, 2021 1:51 pm My guess is debris landed on hot wire of mas and reading skewed enough to interrupt the normal perfect running but not enough or long enough to set a code. Engine data with scan tool is the only way to confirm that but would of had to be connected while it was happening. I would clean mas . blow out air box and intake and make sure good or new paper air filter is there. If there is a K&N remove and toss it . These are fine for the enthusiast that will keep it serviced but not a good idea for most.
While the issue was certainly severe, it was a one-time matter and the car has been running perfectly since. If it happens again, I'll definitely investigate further.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
- SAEED_KIZZY
- Posts: 542
- Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2017 2:31 pm
perhaps it is just a loose or corroded battery terminal
Nope. The terminals were on tight and I have no corrosion there. Also, the battery performance was fine as the car started normally after each stall. It would actually make more sense that the alternator was at fault as that powers a vehicle more after the engine is started. The issue has not presented itself since that one occasion and the car continues to run fine. It's a weird incident but thankfully appears to be a one-time anomaly resolved by a battery disconnect.SAEED_KIZZY wrote: ↑Wed Dec 01, 2021 8:39 pm perhaps it is just a loose or corroded battery terminal
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
The same thing happened again last week. After exiting the freeway and coming to a stop at an intersection nearby, the car stalled out at idle. No problems starting again but idle stalled the engine each time after. I had to rev in neutral to keep the engine from stalling when stopped. I then got to a parking lot to park and after some time, drove the car again around the lot. It didn't stall out at every stop and idle anymore, but after doing so once more in the parking lot, I disconnected the battery for a minute. No issues after reconnect and it's been running fine in the week since.
Thing to note this time: This issue occurred roughly 12 hours after I cleaned my engine with a light mist spray of water. I had to clean off the dried coolant that sprayed over the engine in the boil-over I had earlier. After the cleaning, I idled the engine for several minutes and even drove it once for a short distance without issue. Not sure if the stall-out was related to engine cleaning causing extra moisture for the MAF sensor.
The air filter is new and clean. New AGM battery with secure connections on terminals.
This occurred about a year after my original post on the same issue.
Thing to note this time: This issue occurred roughly 12 hours after I cleaned my engine with a light mist spray of water. I had to clean off the dried coolant that sprayed over the engine in the boil-over I had earlier. After the cleaning, I idled the engine for several minutes and even drove it once for a short distance without issue. Not sure if the stall-out was related to engine cleaning causing extra moisture for the MAF sensor.
The air filter is new and clean. New AGM battery with secure connections on terminals.
This occurred about a year after my original post on the same issue.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
- SAEED_KIZZY
- Posts: 542
- Joined: Wed Sep 13, 2017 2:31 pm
I have a suggestion, next time do not disconnect the battery terminal instead do a throttle body calibration procedure and see if it fixes the problem.procedure is simple:
Push engine switch to change ignition mode to “ON” without depressing brake pedal (CVT model) or clutch pedal (M/T model) and leave ignition mode in “ON” for 5 sec. or more.
Push engine switch to change ignition mode to “ON” without depressing brake pedal (CVT model) or clutch pedal (M/T model) and leave ignition mode in “ON” for 5 sec. or more.
Something to try, but that is assuming it's the throttle body at fault. I was away from home and also had to drive in stop-and-go freeway traffic immediately after so I needed the "fix" that would work. I think Old Tech once mentioned a moisture issue with the MAF sensor on this car that causes idle issues. Perhaps what happened is related.SAEED_KIZZY wrote: ↑Tue Dec 27, 2022 8:48 pm I have a suggestion, next time do not disconnect the battery terminal instead do a throttle body calibration procedure and see if it fixes the problem.procedure is simple:
Push engine switch to change ignition mode to “ON” without depressing brake pedal (CVT model) or clutch pedal (M/T model) and leave ignition mode in “ON” for 5 sec. or more.
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Black)
It sounds like your throttle body is failing to me . If there are no codes to point you in a different direction then I would try one. This shouldnt be sourced from the popular Sx4 or Vitara . Only the Kizashi but can be stick or auto. If you cant find one , I can ship you a known good one for $40