Me again. 2010 Suzuki Kizashi. Last 6 months doing the not starting, wheel lock. Sometimes takes 3 tries or sometimes takes hours or try again another day.
I've seen the topic on here before and I thought a work around might just be getting out of the car while it is on and closing drivers door, walk around to passenger side and shut off from that side. I'd need to get in passenger side to then start the car when I want to leave.
However, it seems that doesn't even work all the time. So it wheel locks even when I don't open the drivers door after turning off car. Any intermittent work around that can work? I've seen removing door switch and disconnecting for wheel lock in the driver door but wondering if that would even help considering it wheel locks when I dont open the driver's door.
Thank!
Wheel Lock-car won't start
You need a wheel lock module. 37100-57L12-000
Disconnecting the driver's door light switch got rid of the problem for me until I got around to installing the new module.
Disconnecting the driver's door light switch got rid of the problem for me until I got around to installing the new module.
Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
Should be a convenience store, not a government agency
An electronic steering lock module would be the proper fix. It would be pretty expensive. If you’re looking for a cheaper repair what you can do is add a momentary push button switch, using power from the brake light (load side) and use it to power up the starter relay. (both of these connections can be found at the keyless start module directly behind the coin box left of the steering wheel.) What this will do is give you the ability to engage the starter anytime you have the brake pedal and the added push button switch pressed simultaneously. The key fob will still need to be used to unlock and power up ignition. When the door switch is disconnected, this works well for a while, but the Continuity for the switch, controlling the signal to the starter relay located inside the ESL can lose its continuity. This is when you would have to put the door switch back in place, open the door and keep cycling the push button start switch to get it to regain continuity and then unplugging the door switch again. I do a version of this but swap the left rear door circuit with the left rear door circuit. This makes it so the driver does not lose interior lights when entering and exiting the vehicle, if continuity were then to fail, the driver would have to open the left rear door and cycle the push button start again. This can get frustrating because sometimes it could take quite a few cycles before regaining continuity, and that is the purpose of adding a momentary switch to override this cheap Chinese steering lock module.
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Woodie and Old Tech discussed the more permanent solutions to the issue. It's a very common issue with the Kizashi and other cars of this era with electronic steering wheel locks. My car does it time to time but not enough for me to consider parts replacement. I found that what works to quickly resolve it (at this point) is to keep the driver door open as you cycle the start button when the problem presents itself. This keeps the steering lock mechanism cycling at each attempt. It also helps to hold the steering wheel a bit against the direction of the lock but the instrument display does not always give you that notice.
Again, my tip doesn't fix the issue at all but maybe can help start your car faster if the issue presents. It's worked great for me.
Again, my tip doesn't fix the issue at all but maybe can help start your car faster if the issue presents. It's worked great for me.
2025 Mazda CX-50 Preferred Hybrid
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
2011 Suzuki Kizashi Sport GTS 6MT (Sold)
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man...this is so bad..20 minutes and no luck..Just hitting the start button endlessly with the driver door open. Guess I just have a super stubborn broken system. Hope it starts before something else like battery dies or starter breaks.
The starter relay is clearly marked. (fuse box under hood) pull it and connect the two terminals where the two copper leads from the relay go momentarily. A needle nose pliers works great. Make sure its in park and combination meter is lit up. If starter and battery are good, it will start.
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that is a bit above my pay grade. If I just disconnect my door lock button in the door now, can I bypass this current lock? Or do i need to get my car past this issue and started before disconnecting that button in the driver door?
The second half. You will need to get it running then disconnect door switch.Kentroyals5 wrote:that is a bit above my pay grade. If I just disconnect my door lock button in the door now, can I bypass this current lock? Or do i need to get my car past this issue and started before disconnecting that button in the driver door?
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Very strange. I got my car to start this morning...moved it out of my garage and while running opener driver door and closed it (while running) and opened passenger door to turn off the car. Hence driver door didn't open after car was turned off. The wheel lock still engaged and it wont start now. What in the world?
If you had the battery disconnected the car defaults to right hand drive momentarily I’ve noticed this when you open the drivers door the right side shows on the display. . I think you’ll have to open the drivers door again and cycle through that and as soon as you get it to start with the door open disconnect your drivers door switch. I don’t have any idea how long that will last and you’ll never be able to trust it, but hooking up a simple switch would not be very hard for someone to do.Kentroyals5 wrote:Very strange. I got my car to start this morning...moved it out of my garage and while running opener driver door and closed it (while running) and opened passenger door to turn off the car. Hence driver door didn't open after car was turned off. The wheel lock still engaged and it wont start now. What in the world?
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