1

[~tc~]

I didn't think this sounded right, so I went out and looked .... There is a separate bulb for the DRL in the high beam housing.

Since it will have no effect on the longevity of the bulbs (the common reason for wanting to bypass DRL), I'm curious why you would want to mess with the wiring on a vehicle still under warranty?

[~tc~]

Book shmook - I went out and looked at what bulb is illuminated in the various modes.

Yes, it's a 2011 SLS

[~tc~]

I am telling you that mine does not work that way, book be damned.

I think I am capable of seeing which bulb is illuminated thankyouverymuch

[~tc~]

I was just curious what people think is so bad about DRLs, yeesh, no need to write two flaming page long essays over it.

I appreciate the effort of going through the wiring diagrams, and will probably use them myself to figure out how to run the fogs while the hi beams are on.

[~tc~]

You dealer lied to you. Per the Magnuson-Moss act they would have to prove the failure was due to the SRI in order to deny your warranty claim. That's the law.

In reality, it becomes such a PITA that it's not worth the struggle to most people except for very major claims.

You misread my post. Running at reduced voltages very definitely reduces bulb life, especially with halogen bulbs, and the most common, and very valid, reason for disabling the DRLs. This is far and away the leading cause for failure when people upgrade to hyper white bulbs like the Silverstars. The bulbs require getting hot enough to recondense the filament, and that won't happen without enough voltage. it really only takes a few volts to make the difference. On many cars, it is recommended to bypass the factory harness, just using it to throw a relay to energize a circuit direct from the battery in order to have sufficient voltage.

Believe me, I doubt there is anyone on this forum who has modified vehicles to the extent that I have. Motor swaps, transmission/transfer cases, full custom link suspensions, stereo and custom interior ... Been there done that. I bought the Kizashi because I like having a car you don't see on every corner, and I fully understand wanting to customize it and further make it "yours" - I was interested in seeing the motivation behind such a modification, so sue me for wanting to learn a bit more about the people here..

[~tc~]

No, I said that since it uses a different bulb entirely that it won't affect the life of the actual high beam bulb.

I assume my manual will say the same as yours, I don't have any explanation why the actual operation is different. I can tell you I'm not about to point it out to anyone since I don't want it "fixed".

With will2k, I pointed out that jamming the wire under the fuse was not a good technique. Since he didn't whine about it, there was no need to say anything else, I would hope he took it as the "constructive criticsm" that it was and rewired it properly.

[Gazu]

This DRL are driving me crazy!
Did you already created a break on the PNK/GRN wire?
If you did it and it is working fine can you please let me know where is the most accessible way to find the E 254 PNK/GRN wire that goes to terminal 3?
Is the DRL dashboard light off?
By the way the description of the DRL operation is very nice.
Thank you,
Gazu

[Northernstar]

~tc~

I agree. It won’t affect the longevity of the high beam bulb if the DRL uses a different bulb, - as you claim with your SLS - but regardless of which bulb the DRL uses, it will still impact bulb life (as you also conveyed). Again, your first and fifth posts are confusing because they directly contradict each other as I stated before.
As far as using constructive criticism, many people are wired differently and therefore take criticism differently. If you’re being altruistic by trying to help someone out, you might as well be helpful in your wording as well. Why not err on the side of caution by not including remarks that someone may be affronted by. Again, no one can infer anyone’s context or tone to well with written words; just makes sense to me.

I’ve included the 2011 SLS front headlight diagram that is applicable to all U.S. Models.

-The #1 bulb (lower one in the housing) is the position/clearance light.
-The #2 bulb is the turn signal.
-The #3 bulb is the projector low beam.
- The #8 bulb is the high beam bulb.

There is no separate DRL bulb listed in this diagram. If your SLS has a different lighting configuration, the car was either a) mis-wired; b) built as a different foreign or customized version; or c) the possibility exists that you could be misinterpreting what you see.

(I know, I know; “book be damned of course”).

[img]J:\my%20documents\2011%20Kizashi%20SLS%20Front%20Headlight%20Diagram.JPG[/img]

not sure about US but in Canada the DRL is the same one as position light. When switched to high beam, DRL/position light is switched off.

[jimmerz]

I do absolutely no tinkering with cars and have no technical knowledge and my input may be pretty useless, However...

I would like the ability to turn off the DRL at times as well since I sometimes drive into areas where I might want to not draw attention to myself. As for the Drive in I just pull the Emergency brake.

is there an easier was to somehow use whatever deactivates the DRL by pulling the emergency brake? Just curious.

[hocaspocas]

If you dont want DRL. Get the models for latin America. Those have the DRL deactivated. Why? Because is against the law to have the lights on during the day in some of these countries.